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68 Unimog 404 Restomod

B

BELinNC

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Location
White Oak, NC
Sounds like you are making some progress. Check the wiring on the temp sender before you order a new gauge. My SEE temp gauge did not work at first, but cleaning the electrical contacts had it working again. My oil pressure gauge did not revive and I plumbed in a new mechanical gauge.
 
SuperMochombo

SuperMochombo

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Progress to report! Not really good news, but I'm working hard at it becoming good news.

I did a compression test, and the range is 155 at the highest to 130 at the lowest cylinder. I have changed plugs and wires, and changed the engine oil (not the filter yet.) I cleaned out the fuel tank, changed the fuel filter, and refilled with fresh gas. I topped up the coolant and added gear oil to the water pump bearings. The belts are in good shape, not too tight.

Still runs poorly. Won't idle.

Gotta be a carb or timing issue. I suspect my crappy carb rebuilding skills, and my lazy approach to the distributor. In fact I know something is amiss in the carb still bc when I tried to choke it has dropped out the choke gasket. Stopped dripping when I closed the choke.
 
SuperMochombo

SuperMochombo

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Victories! Small ones.

I just figured out how to follow the manual!

The running issues have turned into starting issues again, but even though that seems like a setback, it's actually just a chance for me to learn all this stuff now. I know I need fuel, air and spark in the cylinder. I have good compression, I have good fuel at the carb at the correct pressure. The float bowl has fuel in it. I have spark at all the plugs. But I cant get the truck to fire.

I think the trouble lies in the timing. I removed the distributor and cleaned and inspected the Petronix unit and the advance, and it all seems in order. I put the distributor on in the orientation in the manual (opposite how it was previously) with the wires fitting facing forward. I jacked the rear wheel and put it in 6th gear and I am rotating the motor and trying to find TDC on piston 1. The plug hole is in an awkward place, and so I have a friend coming by tomorrow to spin the wheel while I watch the piston with a camera or a feeler of some kind. I used a plastic straw today and the piston was pushing it up but I can't spin the wheel and mind the straw at the same time, and I am nervous about putting things into my cylinders to begin with.

The marks on the balancer are evident, and I'm assuming that the 0 mark should line up when the #1 piston hits TDC. I chalked 2 degrees bTDC as per the manual on the balancer , only to clean off more balancer and discover another whole set of marks with degrees stamped on it. There are degree marks and numbers on the front edge of the balance and on the back edge. Not sure which to use, though the manual has a picture using the back edge marks so I will go with that for now. However, my balancer does not look like the one in the manual. It's still a bit of a mystery but I assume that the controlling factor here is the piston, so when I know its at TDC, the balancer will say what it says... and I will remember it.

Once I get the #1 piston to TDC, I will be able to properly set the timing on the truck (hopefully) and should be running!

I made a tent so I can work in inclement weather.

I know this is basic to some, maybe most. But it's a first for me, and I'm enjoying it. I need to learn this stuff to earn the honor of driving my truck. I just wish I didn't have to work all day every day. I might have to quit for a while so I can get rolling :LOL:
 

Attachments

P

Pohl

New member
13
16
3
Location
North California
SuperMochombo said:
Victories! Small ones.

I just figured out how to follow the manual!

The running issues have turned into starting issues again, but even though that seems like a setback, it's actually just a chance for me to learn all this stuff now. I know I need fuel, air and spark in the cylinder. I have good compression, I have good fuel at the carb at the correct pressure. The float bowl has fuel in it. I have spark at all the plugs. But I cant get the truck to fire.

I think the trouble lies in the timing. I removed the distributor and cleaned and inspected the Petronix unit and the advance, and it all seems in order. I put the distributor on in the orientation in the manual (opposite how it was previously) with the wires fitting facing forward. I jacked the rear wheel and put it in 6th gear and I am rotating the motor and trying to find TDC on piston 1. The plug hole is in an awkward place, and so I have a friend coming by tomorrow to spin the wheel while I watch the piston with a camera or a feeler of some kind. I used a plastic straw today and the piston was pushing it up but I can't spin the wheel and mind the straw at the same time, and I am nervous about putting things into my cylinders to begin with.

The marks on the balancer are evident, and I'm assuming that the 0 mark should line up when the #1 piston hits TDC. I chalked 2 degrees bTDC as per the manual on the balancer , only to clean off more balancer and discover another whole set of marks with degrees stamped on it. There are degree marks and numbers on the front edge of the balance and on the back edge. Not sure which to use, though the manual has a picture using the back edge marks so I will go with that for now. However, my balancer does not look like the one in the manual. It's still a bit of a mystery but I assume that the controlling factor here is the piston, so when I know its at TDC, the balancer will say what it says... and I will remember it.

Once I get the #1 piston to TDC, I will be able to properly set the timing on the truck (hopefully) and should be running!

I made a tent so I can work in inclement weather.

I know this is basic to some, maybe most. But it's a first for me, and I'm enjoying it. I need to learn this stuff to earn the honor of driving my truck. I just wish I didn't have to work all day every day. I might have to quit for a while so I can get rolling :LOL:
Click to expand...
If the distributor was incorrectly installed, perhaps you should also determine the valve-camshaft timing at the same time. Follow the instructions in your manual about valve timing. The notches on the camshaft and cam bearing should align when you are at TDC. This will make feeling for compression not needed, because your valves will both be closed if all is in alignment. If they are not all aligned, you have a valve timing issue as well.
 
SuperMochombo

SuperMochombo

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Albany, NY
Pohl said:
If the distributor was incorrectly installed, perhaps you should also determine the valve-camshaft timing at the same time. Follow the instructions in your manual about valve timing. The notches on the camshaft and cam bearing should align when you are at TDC. This will make feeling for compression not needed, because your valves will both be closed if all is in alignment. If they are not all aligned, you have a valve timing issue as well.
Click to expand...
I would like to determine that! However I assumed because I have good compression in each cylinder that the valve timing is at least close, and that a valve issue would not cause the truck to simply not start.

But...

All my friends who hated on me for getting this truck are smug. I feel a bit like an idiot. I've been trying since 5 PM and still no running. Offering to pay someone to come get this darn thing running, required to tell me WTF I'm doing wrong.
 
SuperMochombo

SuperMochombo

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Location
Albany, NY
Well, I struggled through it. Tried it one more time using the compression tester method and it must have worked bc I got running. Even went on a test drive! I was able to start several times with just a push of the button. It runs about the same though, possibly worse a little. No power at all. Trouble idling.

I've been reading threads on multiple forums, and absorbing the knowledge. I'm hoping to leave a decent set of tracks here so anyone chasing these things down on a 1968 German Unimog 404 can be careful not to follow in my footsteps.

I'm about to pull the valve cover and the lower part of the distributor. I'm getting oil out the tailpipe. Think I have a bad exhaust valve seal on #2 bc all the plugs are clean but cylinder 2, which is black. Also, I just discovered the actual idle screw itself. I've never checked the throttle valves to see where they sit at the current setting. The distributor isn't right yet either. So I'm backing up and checking stuff.

Just the short drive was great, and I'm hooked. I love this truck. All I want is to drive it.

Been getting organized tool wise. Got a deal on a bunch of new toolboxes.
 
SuperMochombo

SuperMochombo

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Albany, NY
Progress. I removed the carb, the distributor, the fuel pump and little filter, and the distributor bearing and helical gear. I think the gear was installed 180 degrees out. The keyed bottom of the distributor and the slotted top of the helical gear is offset, so it only fits in the bearing one way. However, the slotted bottom of the helical gear is centered and I have heard is reversible 180 degrees. I think mine was reversed.

I removed the valve cover, which was pretty easy after getting the dash plate out. Like others, I had to drill out one of the screws holding the dash plate in. After loosening the coolant reservoir, it came right out. Under the cover I found several rocker arm retaining springs out of place, so I replaced them with snap ring pliers. I have started checking clearances but have only done a few, which weren't too tight. [Edit: Really got me wondering how those springs popped loose. What causes that? ]

Tomorrow I'm going to finish the valve clearances and make any adjustments needed, then bring the #1 to TDC and reinstall the fuel pump and distributor. I'm anxious to find out if I can get it all back together again with the distributor properly seated and the hash marks properly aligned with TDC.

Assuming I get that far, I might even get to try to drive again.

Lots of other little odd jobs going on. I repaired the rear passenger side reflector. The rubber strap broke during delivery, and when I tried to get the retaining nut off the back of the reflector to put the reflector on the new strap, it broke off. So I slathered the whole shebang with black Sikaflex, making sure to fill up all the cracks in the old rubber bezel. WHen it cured I sanded it all down smooth and it looks as good a new.

I repaired the door driver door handle so you can let yourself out without rolling down the window.

I opened up the little fuel filter and holy cow what a mess! Probably not going back in the truck right away. I have other modern filters right now. Eventually I might reinstall it just for originality. But maybe not.

Progress! I already signed up for Massmog in May. Gotta be ready!

IMG_20240325_173520935.jpgIMG_20240325_132440570.jpgIMG_20240325_122841940.jpg
 
Last edited:
P

Pohl

New member
13
16
3
Location
North California
SuperMochombo said:
Progress. I removed the carb, the distributor, the fuel pump and little filter, and the distributor bearing and helical gear. I think the gear was installed 180 degrees out. The keyed bottom of the distributor and the slotted top of the helical gear is offset, so it only fits in the bearing one way. However, the slotted bottom of the helical gear is centered and I have heard is reversible 180 degrees. I think mine was reversed.

I removed the valve cover, which was pretty easy after getting the dash plate out. Like others, I had to drill out one of the screws holding the dash plate in. After loosening the coolant reservoir, it came right out. Under the cover I found several rocker arm retaining springs out of place, so I replaced them with snap ring pliers. I have started checking clearances but have only done a few, which weren't too tight. [Edit: Really got me wondering how those springs popped loose. What causes that? ]

Tomorrow I'm going to finish the valve clearances and make any adjustments needed, then bring the #1 to TDC and reinstall the fuel pump and distributor. I'm anxious to find out if I can get it all back together again with the distributor properly seated and the hash marks properly aligned with TDC.

Assuming I get that far, I might even get to try to drive again.

Lots of other little odd jobs going on. I repaired the rear passenger side reflector. The rubber strap broke during delivery, and when I tried to get the retaining nut off the back of the reflector to put the reflector on the new strap, it broke off. So I slathered the whole shebang with black Sikaflex, making sure to fill up all the cracks in the old rubber bezel. WHen it cured I sanded it all down smooth and it looks as good a new.

I repaired the door driver door handle so you can let yourself out without rolling down the window.

I opened up the little fuel filter and holy cow what a mess! Probably not going back in the truck right away. I have other modern filters right now. Eventually I might reinstall it just for originality. But maybe not.

Progress! I already signed up for Massmog in May. Gotta be ready!

View attachment 919886View attachment 919887View attachment 919888
Click to expand...
Your fuel filter shows an incredible amount of calcification, probably due to the amount of moisture in the fuel system and tanks. As well, that is the early filter. The late filters are the only ones available which require a newer cannister. The cannister shown has the old thick lip. Get a replacement gasket also.
 
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