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Alternator full fielded. Help

C

CanadianAR

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Was putting that other disaster hmmwv back together today, and had driven mine over.


went to go home, turned on my lights, all LED, all proper and correct. As I went to drive they flickered rapidly and went out. So I stop and they came back. Idling the volt gauge was in green but any rpm above idle put It into the red and over Volted the lights. I have a 60a alternator without modification. Engine was new with truck rebuild on 2007.

Is there something that needs adjustment? Or do I just order an alternator?

Thanks Guys
 
C

CanadianAR

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I’ve concluded there’s no adjustments. Seems like straight hook ups. I cleaned the contacts, but here’s my main issue……half way home it started working normally…..wtf.

it’s it’s a sign of the alt failing I’ll just order one.
 
Mogman

Mogman

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CanadianAR said:
I’ve concluded there’s no adjustments. Seems like straight hook ups. I cleaned the contacts, but here’s my main issue……half way home it started working normally…..wtf.

it’s it’s a sign of the alt failing I’ll just order one.
Click to expand...
The regulator on the 60A is well known to fail in this way, can go back and forth charging OK, not at all to wide open, usually ending in a no output state.
Most replace the reg. and brushes or upgrade to a 200A system, that option is getting pretty pricey though.
 
C

CanadianAR

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Thank you! As I suspected,

I do not want a 200a. It’s too big, I use little amperage for my LED lights, then it’s the blower motor and fuel pump, gauges. I don’t think you could run a simpler system. 3 speed. No electrical add ons other than a license plate light which is LED. Plus less stress on the mountings.

I guess I’ll just order an alternator from hummerpartsguy.


Rebuilding mine may be a winter project. Summer here is short enough so don’t wish to lose time.
 
BLK HMMWV

BLK HMMWV

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I have a take out 24 volt 100 amp laying around some place. I have at least 2-3 spare regulators for it too
It was on my old 6.2 when I pulled the power pack and upgraded to the 6.5 na ,4l80e, 242 set up .
I got no idea what a fair price is for it .
 
C

CanadianAR

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BLK HMMWV said:
I have a take out 24 volt 100 amp laying around some place. I have at least 2-3 spare regulators for it too
It was on my old 6.2 when I pulled the power pack and upgraded to the 6.5 na ,4l80e, 242 set up .
I got no idea what a fair price is for it .
Click to expand...
Appreciate the offer, but I already ordered a new one. I tend to just go full send, summer is short here, so want limited downtime. Haha
 
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Bootkick

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I’m attempting an overhaul on my 60 amp Sielman S.A. (Made in Greece) alternator. I have my replacement VR, a rebuild kit to replace the broken frame and replacement rectifiers are on the way since the old ones didn’t pass the ohm test. My hang up is trying to desolder the leads from the rectifiers. Anyone have any tips or tricks for this process?
My project MV is a 1994 M998 with a 6.2 engine.
 
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Bootkick

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We it’s after midnight and I just (finally) finished the generator rebuild. Tomorrow is the big day when I install it on the Humvee and fire it up. I pray that my solders hold up! This was a big ordeal for me but from the prices I’ve seen, I’ve saved a bundle of cash!
 
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Bootkick

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It’s been a rollercoaster ride for sure. First off, it took me about three weeks working off and on to get the generator reassembled, then when I installed it back on the HUMMWV, no output! I pulled it back off and removed the voltage regulator. To my surprise, I found one of the brushes dangling from its lead wire. How did that happen? I had a dickens of a time with them but thought sure I had them in place. Well I learned if you place the middle screw in the brush holder you can pivot it, place the springs and brushes in the holder and pivot it back into position. With that resolved, I installed it again and volla, it was producing 28.62 volts, just a little over the preferred 28.5 volts. the next day I was headed out to the gun range, about 20 miles away. Everything was working wonderfully. The gun range was closed so I fueled up and went for a relaxing drive in the country. It started to rain so I headed back home when about half way there I noticed the voltage was in the yellow!!! When I arrived back home, I removed the wiring cover and confirmed what I suspected. I was reading battery voltage at the generator out put terminal. At this point I removed it again and took off the VR, inspected the wiring and all of my solders. Everything looks good but still no output. my next step, I’ve been told is to remove it and ohm out the rotor to check for an open short. If that ohms out ok I will have the VR tested. Stay tuned as the story continues…
 
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Bootkick

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The VR was sent for testing and I am waiting for the results. I pray that it test bad b/c the man said he would replace it. Otherwise, I will have to break down and purchase another generator! This is becoming a real money pit!
 
Mogman

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Bootkick said:
It’s been a rollercoaster ride for sure. First off, it took me about three weeks working off and on to get the generator reassembled, then when I installed it back on the HUMMWV, no output! I pulled it back off and removed the voltage regulator. To my surprise, I found one of the brushes dangling from its lead wire. How did that happen? I had a dickens of a time with them but thought sure I had them in place. Well I learned if you place the middle screw in the brush holder you can pivot it, place the springs and brushes in the holder and pivot it back into position. With that resolved, I installed it again and volla, it was producing 28.62 volts, just a little over the preferred 28.5 volts. the next day I was headed out to the gun range, about 20 miles away. Everything was working wonderfully. The gun range was closed so I fueled up and went for a relaxing drive in the country. It started to rain so I headed back home when about half way there I noticed the voltage was in the yellow!!! When I arrived back home, I removed the wiring cover and confirmed what I suspected. I was reading battery voltage at the generator out put terminal. At this point I removed it again and took off the VR, inspected the wiring and all of my solders. Everything looks good but still no output. my next step, I’ve been told is to remove it and ohm out the rotor to check for an open short. If that ohms out ok I will have the VR tested. Stay tuned as the story continues…
Click to expand...
Did you make sure you had exciter voltage to the IGN terminal??
Did you have any issues with the windshield wipers while driving in the rain?
 
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Mogman

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Wire 2A is supposed to be AC to tell the startbox the engine is running and for use with a tach, it is attached to terminal marked AC
The ign or sometimes marked sense terminal on the regulator is connected to wire 5A and should have battery voltage on it when the run switch is on.
2A and 5A are wire markers the terminals are not marked with the wire numbers
 
B

Bootkick

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Just to make sure we’re on the same page, I’m working on a 60 amp alternator. It has a round, end cap style voltage regulator mounted on the rear of the alternator. The wire terminals on the top of the alternator don’t appear to have any markings ( at least I didn’t notice any). I was just going by the wire markings. The wire marked 568 is the one the tech manual says should have battery voltage when in the run (engine not running) position. It passed this test after I replaced the star box. Is wire 2A the ac wire that you mentioned?
 
Mogman

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Sorry I thought you had a 200A.
Yes the 568 is the exciter wire, 568 and 5A the output wire are connected to the same place in the start box, both are switched.
 
B

Bootkick

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I recieved the tested VR back and decided to double check all of my connections before reassembly. All connectipons checked okay. With assembly complete, I started the hummer to find that I still have no output from the alternator. Still just battery voltage at the output terminal. Also, I checked the 568/Exiciter wire and it too has battery voltage (24.08 volts). At this point, I’m at a loss. I don’t know what to do except replace it. Any hints?
 
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Bootkick

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I saw a post suggesting that I replace the brushes. The tech manual says they should be replaced if less than a 1/4”. Mine are close to 3/4”. I did not replace them but I did swap them to see if they made a closer fit to the shaft. They did look to fit better but it did not give me positive results!
 
Mogman

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You should be able to ohm the brush leads to make sure you have a viable field, not sure what it would ohm at but it should not be open or zero ohms.
If you have the manual you should be able to troubleshoot just about any issue with a VOM
 
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