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A/C Diagnostic help

thoner7

Active member
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Location
NE TN
Glad you found the bad switch, that was starting to look suspect, yes the valve is closed (powered) in AC mode, failure of this valve is very common, you can force it closed, many replace it with a manually controlled valve and just switch it depending on the season.
Yes there is a drain hose that connects to a nipple on the bottom of the evap unit, unfortunately these are sometimes broken off
Any advice on how to "force it closed" while I wait to swap it for a manual valve?

Noob question - how much coolant will leak out when I do eventually remove the valve for the manual style?
 
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REF

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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131
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Location
Porterville Calif
Pop The servo out of the holder ( has 2 metal fingers holding it in place) push the unit forward to close the valve and snap it back into the holder in that forward position. That will hold the valve closed so you have AC . no coolant loss at all.
 

thoner7

Active member
359
221
43
Location
NE TN
Just to confirm I’m doing this right - the little C shaped piece turns the valve? Forward is AC and back is heat? My truck has heat but the C lever was mid way between open and closed.

The last pic is how I left it….AC??

thanks to everyone for your help
 

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REF

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
120
131
43
Location
Porterville Calif
When the servo heats up it extends out pushing the C forward to close the valve, as long as the C is pushed as far forward as it will go and you snap the servo back into the holder to hold forward pressure on the C you should be great.
 
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