Pstyckiewicz
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I would say that meter is toast.When I connect it to the - buss and + buss in the battery box I get 190.00ish this is set on DCV 200. When set on DCV 20 the numbers go up and then get a number 1 as a it’s over the limit of what it can read. I get the moving from 20 to 200 just moves the decimal. The tester some times not connected is still reading high voltages. Then I connect the red and black point of the tester together and that brings it bad 0. Probably user error but could be a cheap tester.
Glad you found the bad switch, that was starting to look suspect, yes the valve is closed (powered) in AC mode, failure of this valve is very common, you can force it closed, many replace it with a manually controlled valve and just switch it depending on the season.Also the heater core is really hot in the front Evap assembly. I think the water valve is stuck open. Tried to clamp it off with some vise grips but it still seemed hot . Probably didn’t clamp good enough.
Is the valve held closed when the power to the A/C is on? Seems strange
And one last thing. Got the front evap cooling down and started to form a lake in the truck from the condensation. Is there a drain hose that hooks up a certain way?
You still look a little low, there are many charts out there for the R-134A that show the desired pressures depending on ambient temperature, these are with the fan on high and at 1800-2000RPMOk got a new multimeter. What a difference. The A/C switch on the dash appears to not work. Jumped 435A to 435E and bypassed the switch. Got power all the way to the low pressure switch. Nothing past it. Jumped it and every thing turned on.
So it looks like the A/C switch is bad and possible the low pressure switch.
Put some refrigerant in and hooked up the low pressure wires to see if the adding some stuff to the system would get the switch to work. It didn’t. ( picture attached of pressure after adding refrigerant).
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