I spent the last couple of weekends chasing the electrical issues in my M1010. It was blowing an aftermarket fuse on an ignition wire to the 12V bulkhead adjacent to the master cylinder when I keyed on. I pulled the harness and looked it over, replacing damaged wires and putting it back to stock with the plan B mod for removing the Duvac. I went back to the 24V direct drive starter which required fabricating the now obsolete bracket. I have the 12V redux starter and bracket as a spare.
The wiring had been hacked a lot before I got it, so I was happy to study the wiring schematics in the TM and know what goes where and that it was back to the original configuration. The truck started shockingly fast on the first try after all this work. When I went to turn on the service lights at the blackout switch, the horn started blaring.
Thankfully, I had read about the diode that fails on the back of the relay. I snipped out the diode and now the horn works as it should.
A previous owner had clipped the wire to the horn and I assume they didn’t know about the diode. After the truck had run for a few minutes, I was checking in on the engine and the pink wire to the injection pump sole oid started sparking and the engine shut off.
The fusible link that I installed to replace the aftermarket fuse holder started burning. Luckily, I had a fire extinguisher on hand and hit it with a quick shot and the fire was out. I suppose the insulator for the positive fuel shutoff solenoid stud had failed and allowed a dead short to the body of the injection pump. I ordered q new solenoid and picked up some new fusible link to get it sorted. It felt great to hear it running again!
Can’t wait to start driving it around again.
