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Alright, so I recently bought an M936A1 and have been trying to read up on what makes those things tick. It'll primarily be used to move a few things around, such as containers, and also to get my FLU 419s unstuck as needed. It wouldn't surprise me if I get volunteered to get other people's...

It's the typical Case 580 over-center design, so the boom can't reach the lock without reversing the flow right before it runs out of travel. And it's not an rpm issue. I prefer locking it at idle. Less noise, less stress on the parts involved.

Ether smells great, I think, but using it for bead seating can be an acquired taste. When shopping for a bead blaster, avoid the ones with a normal ball valve. The good ones have a "trigger button" which releases all the air now.

You need a good bead blaster...or starting fluid. With the tire off the ground, of course.

I don't think I tried to attach a photo. Anyway, did buy one this morning, and it'll hopefully be here in a couple of weeks. It'll be interesting to see what kind of trouble I can get into with a vehicle that weighs nearly 40,000 lbs.

Okay, so I sold a FLU or two, and an M1031, but it looks like I'm getting an M936 to get the other stuff unstuck with.

I removed all the tools and bits, and the tray, since there are other things that are more useful to me that are kept in the toolboxes. Anyway, if I wanted the bits and things still in there, and nicely separated, I'd cut out foam for the job.

I'd start with cleaning the area, then look for the highest point that shows signs of oil on it. After all, gravity affects the fluids in a SEE, too.

There are photos of home made versions in the "owners thread". It's a very easy tool to make. For now, use a screwdriver of the correct size.

You're welcome. I happen to know since the HMMH lost 4WD in a rare case when I needed it. Got out and heard air escaping at a front wheel. Replaced both hoses and have had functional 4WD since...as far as I know. At least there's no pressure loss.

Not sure what vehicle speed would have to do with it. It really should be the engine rpm that counts. Either way, as mentioned, I've spent many hours with the PTO engaged while driving at about 2,000 rpm. In First gear low range, but still.

Why would that be, with open center valves? Besides, I've driven mine quite a bit with the PTO engaged, or the snow blower wouldn't have worked.

Check the small rubber hoses at the front wheels first. Easy enough to do, and I've had two go bad.

That rescue-yourself-alone stuff can get old. Which is why I put an 18,000 lb. winch on the former parts SEE. Sure enough, haven't got anything stuck since.

I don't remember the ratio/minimum speed, but a SEE is too fast in 1st for my liking, both for loader work and my snow blower. Like you, I also think that loader work can be hard on the clutch. And the loader is indeed intended for loose materials. It would be great to have crawler gears like...

Dang. And here I use a dump trailer to move dirt even just 100 feet, instead of using the loader for multiple trips.

The SEE's loader and I don't get along very well, largely due to a lack of practice, but also the somewhat awkward 2-lever setup, and primarily because of the suspension. Anyway, what I'd do with your trench (using the tractor's loader instead since I can operate that one much better and...

Oddly enough, I find it much easier to dig a trench/ditch with a SEE and its many levers than with a modern 2-stick. That's likely because of more practice. Anyway, since what I'm digging doesn't usually have to be all the precise (within two inches of level is plenty over short distances) I...

You may be overthinking this, Ron. When the SEE is higher in relation to the bottom of the "floor" you obviously need to dig a bit deeper, and vice versa. Since you'll have to stop digging and reposition every 12 feet or so anyway, that's a good time to use a laser, mirror (if the sun is...

Never had to make a truly level trench, just irrigation ditches, but if I had to I guess I'd use a transit or maybe a laser.