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Nice Pic Cape

NICE. you beat me to the Tech file

I dunno if this is the best option or not. It has worked for me Four Seasons 69994 Super Flush Solvent Using denatured alcohol to bind and remove moisture sounds like it might be the better way to go.

I've flushed the system prior to disassembly and work. Tapped and installed a bleeder in the bottom of the master cylinder. No problems yet. But once water is in the lines and down stream.....your going to have a challenge. Post #5, 87cr250r suggests the addition of silicone based vacuum...

DOT Rated fittings...

Had similar symptoms with my A2. Several compromised sections culminating to a not running vehicle. The sending using has massively wide tolerances, but lower fuel level and / or cracked rubber line did it. Additionally I had fuel leaking ( bad gasket at primary filter ). Truck would start...

Check and investigate for underlying problems: Alignment, age, damage, tension. If all is good, then it should not 'squeak' consistently. If the noise is intermittent ( start up, rain ) then you might consider moisture / humidity / contamination. At that point keep driving or replace with a...

Good man

Might have been a bit overkill, but 1/2 and 3/8 stainless round cap allens.

The housing is the first ( primary ) fuel filter. The filter is shorter than the housing so it can be used as a water separator. There is a spring inside to position the filter properly. All the NAPA filters ( that i purchased ) came with multiple size gaskets. Take your time, I had a hell of a...

I checked the older threads. Got all the filters at NAPA.

Clean it out. If you have any major suspicion, there are brake line detergents. Blow out the lines, flush with detergent ( i flush until I run out of detergent ). Blow out again, then power bleed. Good luck. Cheers

Was the existing fluid the same color you poured in? Purple like the silicone DOT5, or clear/ yellow for DOT3. Hopefully you can tell if you crack a bleeder. Cheers

I am a bit surprised at the difference in experiences across different states. Congrats on the painless process. Cheers

Very cool acquisition! Keep the mis-match paint! Shows character. A lot of the pieces looks nicely original and usable / re-storable.

The A2 is easier to find civilian spares / parts for. A1 can be pretty dedicated for mil ride height and wheels.

I try to hold hope for my fellow man. Local parts supplier made note in their system about vehicle fitment. I'd purchased non-traditional spark plugs, I was cautious enough to compare with the removed part and check clearance. Would have made contact ( destructive ) with the piston. Showed them...

Make sure to get decent tools. I've had times where I 'got by' with cheap tool i thought i would only use one time. But having a good tool, for a project that can easily go sideways, helps everything go smooth. ....And i never use the tool for "just this one job".......it always gets used again...

Having driven both, when they both are running PROPERLY ( a big IF, lol ) the turbo would get up to speed sooner. At times it 'felt' like it would handle a trailer and load with more confidence. BOTH handle a world better than the straight 6 gas job ( ours was a 52 automatic ). I am a big fan...

became a supporter 2 weeks ago after lurker for YEARS. lol