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Nothing like the right tools.......

Years ago when I was turning wrenches my boss (Korean war mechanic) told me you always put the slip yoke at the transfer case or transmission end. The reason was dirt and water would collect easier on the lower end and wear out the slip yokes. All the factory setups I saw had the slip yoke high...

Hmm.... Westy trashing me again?

I agree with Jed. Those front mounts look really squashed! Try a pair of mounts, see what that does.

A good duct work shop can cut a disc, cross break it, and roll a flange on it. They do that to cap holes on commercial ducting in buildings.

I'm glad y'all are pleased! There was just a tad of laser slag in the middles, so I put them on the dynabrade belt sander to clean them up. I think they look good! The one I kept fits the pulley tight enough that I can let go of it and it won't fall down into the radiator! Sure makes tightening...

Why not? Post a pic, let us look!

I hooked up a K thermocouple and my Fluke 87V after I bypassed the FDC. My truck will definately need the fuel rate decreased. I can hit 1400 in just a few seconds when I get into it hard. It wants to jump right over 1100 degrees with no provocation at all! I guess I'll turn it down a turn and...

Looks like your front mounts are shifting around. I just pulled the IP off my parts truck, slid it back and dropped it out the bottom. If you have to replace the IP, you will need to remove the radiator to allow access to the front of the engine. The pump drive gear must be removed before the...

PM him. He is in the member list.

Good looking wheels. Painted OD green they will look fine. For that matter, plate centers would be fine, as the A3 wheels are solid across the center section.

Axle boot needs changing. If it is greenish, it may be 90 wt leaking through a front axle shaft seal as well.

Clutch pictures Jed Here are the pics of the used clutch assy. I have here at the house. Other than some surface rust, this looks like a good useable assembly.

I agree. The truck should have had a winch with 25K# capacity to be able to self recover in a sticky situation. Of course that would have been more expensive and heavier, so I guess it was a compromise.

Interesting. Sounds like the military was worrying about some other part of the driveline. PTO is plenty strong, as is the tranny. I can't imagine tearing out the winch driveshaft, although I have done that on an old winch truck!

The reason the military uses shear pins is because you can get very predictable results with an alloy pin. Remember, these trucks were designed to survive draftees. Someone who has a lot of experience with winching can get away with steel shear pins, your average Joe needs the shear pin...

Try a pressure washer and a rotary nozzle. CARC tends to be somewhat brittle, and if the surface was not sanded before it was applied, you might be able to blast it off. You will need 4Kpsi or so to do this. I blasted a cood bit of peeling tan CARC on an old M105 trailer that had originally been...

If my understanding of the FDC is correct, when you bypass it it goes into the "gasoline" delivery mode. If it doesn't run too hot with the FDC bypassed and a tank full of diesel, you should be able to run gasoline in as well. You would see a power drop, due to the difference in BTU content of...

Mine would have been $539. They charge sales tak in Ga, that was almost $40.

That is correct. The hubs are designed to handle the rotation, so they hold up fine. When you use one on a rear axle with a double splined shaft, there is practically no rotational difference speed between the axle shaft and the hub, as the wheels keep everything turning.