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Regarding that rubber fuel line under the intake, I changed mine to a new -06AN line. No more sucking air. See Post #294 in my rebuild thread -
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/kinda-got-carried-away-m1028-rebuild.54469/post-2222165
Thanks for your great detailed write-ups. Please let us know which in-line air filter you decide to use. I will soon have the same decision to make after I get my Bullet Supercharger installed. The supercharger blower intake comes out of the blower housing in the rear on the passenger side...
If you can spare the cash, I recommend the Fluidampr. It is by far superior, by using a gel instead of rubber to dampen the torque curves. When I first got my M1028 in 2010, that was the first thing I replaced. My original engine ran strong, however there was a definite "shake" when running...
I agree with NDT. Those bolts are indeed Metric. M8x1.25x20mm flanged head cap bolt. Available at McMaster Carr or KasCar https://real4wd.com/product/bolt-self-locking/ . Hope this helps.
Ok here’s an update - the surgery was last Tuesday 6/8 at Louisville’s Norton Spinal Hospital. Everything went as expected and I stayed in the hospital exactly one week and was discharged this past Monday 6/14. I had 4 vertebrae in my neck which had rotated into my spinal cord and would have...
If you can’t find that specific hose, or until you do, you might be able to use one of the upper hose guards. John Hillbilly wizard has these readily available. Hope this helps.
I agree with Rick. I will also suggest that you do not try to crank the engine again until you 1)- remove the fan, pulleys, water pump & water pump plate, and oil pan to find the broken dowel pin or any other metal fragments, and 2)- determine the reason the pump separated from the drive...
I second what Rick said above, and to add: I have found the best grease to use is any brand which contains Molybdenum. It seems the Moly will stay there longer and is less susceptible to getting washed off by water. I personally use John Deere Moly grease. I use it everywhere. On my tractor and...
I downloaded the TMs into my IPhone. I also downloaded the free Acrobat Reader from the App Store. Now all I have to do is open Acrobat and touch the TM I want to see and there it is. I can go to any page or even search. Usually I go to a certain diagram to identify a part and then scroll to the...
Well I learned something new today. Because the K30 frame slopes downward towards the front, beginning at the rear of the cab, the front tank bracket is shorter, and the position of the press-nuts are at 2:00 on the right of the bracket and 8:00 on the left side. When I went to test-fit the...
Well I looked and do not have good news. I have another sleeve and red gear but will need that when I reinstall my 11.00/20's. My advice is to look on Ebay and find a 34-tooth gear and try it. Good luck.
Regarding the sending unit - The GM part number in the -34P technical manual is 25004140 as shown in Figure 18 on Page 56. I suggest you stay away from the Chinese junk and source a Spectre from Canada. You can get this from Kentucky Speed Shop- Lee Ingram at 859-707-8120. Just specify it is...
I just now looked in the -34P TM on page 43, Figure 13. Those bolts are part #1 I believe but the thread size is NOT identified. I probably have them in my metric bolt assortment. I’ll look tomorrow.
Also, those are flanged head bolts without washers. The reason, if a washer were to break it would drop straight down into the timing chain causing catastrophic damage. I may have them in my parts bin. You only need 3.
That bolt size should be identified in the -34P Technical Manual. If you don’t have it, download it free from this site. Then find the exploded view page and identify the part number, then on the next page it will tell you the bolt size across from the part number. I believe those are metric...
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