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Got the pebbles, thanks Rick. I always be just a shade tree mechanic (if that), but with help and advice from everyone here, it makes it a little easier. Besides, the trucks are fairly simple, so even a knucklehead like me can prevail.

Yeah, I would love to find an unwanted rear seat buss bar set up (to include cables and covers), as my truck had them removed at one point. It is a good place to mount an inverter.

OK, the end of this saga is here, for the most part. Got my radiator back from the shop. It looks great. For all you SS guys in the local area, this guy does fantastic work, doesn't charge for testing to see what is wrong and doesn't gouge you for his time either (Woodstock Radiator and...

I think that the ground pictured above (and located, roughly, on the drivers side, under the dash, above the emergency brake pivot point) is for any 12v ground. 12v negative requirements of the CB should be able to be met by that ground connection point (clean first).

Don't worry, all that firewood will sure come in handy this winter, when oil will be $5-6.00 per gallon....................or MORE !

Yup. Removing that suppressor was one of the first, and easiest things I did when I got the truck. Didn't do much, but it did help a little.

So I took my old radiator to a "mom and pop" radiator shop. The mechanic is 82 years old and lifted the old radiator out of the car like it was a pack of gum!! Amazing! He immediately the radiator on this rotating arch type hoist, plugged all the holes, lowered into the pool of green water...

Add an overdrive unit, as I believe, when all is said and done, the cost is the same. If I was doing gears on the stock 08, I'd probably look at a around a 3.50/3.70's set, just to get the rpms's down, but keep it easier for acceleration. Just my 2 cents.

Well Gunny, if your not in a rush, I'll be getting to the aluminum unit in a little bit and will post a conclusion.

jplace1011, I have redone my wiper system, including a new motor, adding another ground, new arms, blades etc. My wipers move at the same speed as yours in that video (and they did the same thing on my other 1009 too). I think, like Rick said, the motor just isn't the most powerful in Chevy's...

Gunny, I am not crossing off aluminum radiators............yet. It was my screwup stripping that bung out. I really think the unit I got, while not plug and play, is decent and can be made to work, with a few simple mods. And if I can make it work (being a shade tree mechanic, if that !)...

And Rick, honestly, that is the ONLY reason I am holding out hope for my old radiator. I am dropping it off tomorrow morning.

Gunny, I feel your pain aua . Believe me, you are not alone !!!!

Yeah, if I do the Helicoil thing, I will defer to an expert or have a machine shop do it. I can't afford to keep screwing things up.

Rick, you'll be happy to know that I am taking the old radiator to a small local shop that I found out about yesterday. I am going to get it tested and see exactly what is worng with it. Hopefully, it's just in need of repair. If it's repairable, at a reasonable price, I am going to get it...

While I agree with going to a shop, I am wondering if the method I posted above would work? All the oil cooling lines are o-ringed and use that method (along with some pressure from the tightened fitting) to seal everything up. If the copper allows the fitting to be appropriately tightened...

OK, a new radiator is in the cart............really as a last resort. I am exploring every option I can and I came across this. Has anyone used this method?

Yeah, even up by me, it is waaayy to humid to work on anything outside. I sweated buckets for two hours!!! Crazy !

OK, so in addition to a terrible speller, a Master Mechanic I ain't. I managed to strip out aua one of the oil cooler line fitting bungs on the radiator (this isn't going the way I thought it would). The aluminum appears kinda of soft to begin with and I think I may have applied a tad too much...

Ummm, I refuse to answer that question !!!!