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It's a kinda hard concept to grasp & I had a rough time with it myself. The gist of it is that while your ground is... grounded... the neutral eventually goes to ground, but it doesn't always just go to ground. Having your neutral & ground tied together in one place is good... but having them...

[I'm not an electrician] but I'm pretty OK at it. Step #1 for me would be to ohm out between the two bars. They're separate bars, yes, but they may be interconnected by the panel housing itself. My guess is that you'd find very low/no resistance? (Meaning that there's an insulator or something...

There's nothing keeping you from manually setting the throttle on it... since it's an inverter, there's no "60hz" setting like most generators. You will lose all the engine shutdown safeties (low oil pressure, overheat, low fuel) so there's also that.

I've had the same curious thoughts, for the same reason. Passed a snowblower for sale in a driveway the other day, and went hmmmmmm that could be cool.... Aside from the tapered crankshaft, a couple other things to consider. Unless you want to pull start it, I don't believe the flywheel on it...

Yeah it was right around there... maybe could have been as high as 7 gallons, my fuel gauge was dead & the fleabay special I bought worked for about an hour & now just reads slam full... so that was pretty much based on me eyeballing the strainer. I've only really run it the one outage, which...

As far as fuel consumption, mine was running my house on about 5 gallons per day, give or take. I couldn't tell you what I was drawing (my KW gauge was broken) but I'd guess 10-12ish amps on average. I have a VP race jug with a cap rigged up as an auxiliary tank, and had no problem going 24...

[Not an actual electrician] If you're off-grid & don't have to worry about a lockout or transfer switch (and I'd presume also not permits) I'd personally say there's no reason not to at least do it as right as using a power inlet, rather than a suicide cord. Especially in this case, there's...

Kinda sorta looks like the tower trailer for an FIRRE system maybe? (Just googled 'M1102 surveillance trailer' cuz it looked like maybe mounting for an aerial mast kinda thing)

Mine vibrated like crazy when I had it on the trailer. Decided to start simple, found some urethane pads from Energy Suspension, 9.9533G... just throwing one under each bolt I'd guess knocked down about 75% of the vibration. If you wanted to get a little fancier, they come in a pack of 8, you...

The charred wire is almost certainly not the problem, it's a symptom. Something put too much juice through it, causing it to get overheated. I'd reckon that since the generator has safeguards to prevent overloading (and this wire is in fact part of one of those safeguards) the cause is...

You don't necessarily have to put your units on pallets to move them with a pallet jack. You could, for example, make 4 blocks of say 3" tall 4x4, drill & countersink a hole in the middle of each block, and bolt one to each of the trailer mounting holes... just enough to get the bottom of the...

I don't think the rollers at the front of the forks would play well with the rest of the skid that's below the fork slots. We have a straddle pallet stacker at work that'd work pretty well (basically a hand-motivated forklift, with legs that straddle around the skid rather than a counterweight)...

I think he wants to tow the HMMWV with the Unimog, not t'other way 'round.

If you put a 1200 watt heater on one leg, and nothing on the other leg, and were running at 120v, you'd see 10A draw on one leg, and 0A on the other. Would your 1200w heater be drawing 1200w, or 2400w?

Yes, there are plenty of search results. Problem is, most of them aren't 24V, and they say as much. I wish they had functional filtering, but it seems at odds with letting anyone & their brother hawk Chineseum willy-nilly using imaginary brand names. Edit: I bought some that claimed to be...

This, but definitely check. I gad a hard time finding 24v/multi-volt 194 bulbs for gauge backlights. Ended up just buying a bag of them (that claimed 12v) from the 'zon. Thought I was in business, they did light up (very well!) but after about 2 minutes the magic smoke came out.

1-1/4" pipe... not sure if NPT or NPS. You'd think after I left the top cover off for 3 weeks I woulda noticed if it was obviously tapered, but I guess not.

For whatever it's worth, I picked up my 1st about a month ago, it's an '11 production unit with 270 hours on it... don't think it was actually issued, and I'm thinking it's probably got PMCS time on it & about nothing else. I haven't even run out what was in the tank when I got it from GP...

DRASH trailer is probably one of your best bets, but I don't know what the inside wheelwell deck width is. The one like aghumvee posted has some really square wheelwells, don't think driving over them would work well. There's also the LTT-FE (which I think is also under some other DRASH/ECU...

I saw some adapters from 6x5.5" googling around. I'm not knowledgeable on 101s, but if they're Dexter brakes & the same setup as the 1101 brakes (the hub pic looks it) they're standard Dexter 12" 7k drums... which are identical to Dexter 5.5k or 6k 12" drums except for the outer bearing, and...