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The attachment in the OP shows how to adapt the switch(es). It's pretty simple. Dave's image on top of page 2 shows the harness side. Like most any cruise control, you need an on/off (toggle) and a set/resume (momentary). It's literally $10 worth of switches from Amazon. Two switches is...

Interesting.. I like the idea. I've been eyeballing bi-facial panels after seeing some reviews. My goal is to free up the roof space and retain the "observation deck" aspect. Bonus for now having a small perimeter fence around the top deck. But I'd not seen the "why" vertical panels do better.

Interesting. Yeah, my A1R always feels like I have to stand on the brake pedal to hold. It's a LOT of force applied at a stoplight. Almost uncomfortably stiff. Bookmarked

Back is f****d

I'd need to add a skid plate under those filters. Because I scrape stuff with my truck and those look important to keeping it running. Not knocking the relocate, though. I've seen some crazy relocation of the hydraulics and air filters. :)

The only way to know for sure would be to check the RB yards in the CA. But I would imagine so, at least at some point in time. There are still trucks coming out of Yermo on occasion. And they often appear in spurts.

I was just using the N1307 as an example (I just picked a random 24v alt). Of course someone doing such a swap would need to do a good deal of research. And mods would be expected. The point was that it's far cheaper to us a 24v + a step down due to the insanely high price of the dual voltage...

Amazon sells it. About a dollar/foot. I've used these venders. I've had them on my cargo cover for over a year and no UV issues. https://www.amazon.com/CleverDelights-Black-Solid-Rubber-Cord/dp/B01MTB9M8S/ref=sr_1_3 And the hooks...

Ah, bummer. At least some of the fuel cans currently on eBay aren't as bad as they have been in recent years.

And Tractor Supply sells Scepter water cans. I don't recall if the openings are threaded the same, but I think so. But I see Scepter fuel cans on eBay for $50

Looks viable. You might consider an outer horizontal capture plate on the lower part. Keep thigs lined up during any lateral shift. ie: capture the upper part within the lower part.

MWM sells them and at $30 it's one of their very few reasonably priced items. (of course shipping is likely $90)

Apparently it is a well known Dakar truck. It now resides in the DAF museum.

It's a "Push-Me-Pull-Ewe"

(but it seems it is for sale)

Yeah, I do most of my short overnights to fish at the N. Fish Pass jetty (S of Port-A inside the Mustang Island State Park). PINS is for when I'm feeling more adventurous (but it's a full tank of fuel down and back, which has been a wee bit more expensive the past four years).

Nice So you pushed all the way to Mansfield jetties. That's as far off the beaten trail as you can travel on the Island (no 7/11's down there, not even a fresh water source, you're on you own beyond the occasional Park Ranger patrol and shark fisherman's camp). For those that don't know that's...

Thanks

I was under the impression that it was dual and the output number represented the 24v side. So the 100 were 100/40, the 200 were 200/50, and the 260 were 260/140. It was the reason I never looked into the 200a for my old AO truck (I was leaning towards a big 24va with a step down for the 12)...

^THIS ^THIS ^THIS a thousand times THIS 100a on these trucks is anemic (simply idiotic when run with four TL6's). My 1960's 1600cc air-cool VW bug motors have more amperage. Many owners don't realize that the 100a dual voltage Niehoff put's out 100a to the 24 side and 40-50a to the 12v side...