Search results

Rusty, I was gentle... I promise. Blame Cliff McCormick - I was just copying what was in his book.

Endplay check in the 700R4. got it to about .021” and called it. (.005-.035” spec).

Baby steps on the 700r4 build. Might actually get it together this weekend.

And now for something serious... 700R4 build continues. Procrastinated all AM, got the drum loaded up and figured out I needed a different size pressure plate (they come in 5 different sizes). Procrastinated some more then decided to turn down the one I had. Now the clearance is within...

Changed the fluid in the transfer case, swapped rear driveshafts so I can get my better one balanced, replaced transfer case mounts and secured some transmission cooler hoses a little better. Winter is here so I need to get my snow ride ready.

Gottaluvit- your message box is full.

Personally before I tear it apart I would measure the force in inch pounds required to turn the pinion with everything together and note it. Then tear it down, replace the seal and reinstall tightening the pinion nut until the force needed to turn the pinion with everything together is a few...

Personally I only use an impact to break stuff. One of two things happen with an impact, it breaks free or it breaks in half. I measure preload before and after with an inch pound wrench.

I know others have allready suggested this, but you really need to load test those batteries.. Just because a battery has good voltage at the terminals with no load does not mean it is good. Good voltage and good current are two different animals. A load test with a battery load tester is...

New main and rod bearings installed. All the journals looked decent except for one that was scored.

How are you "pretty sure" you don't have an air leak? Do you have clear fuel line on your return so you can see bubbles?

Doh! Excellent carnage.

Whatever it ends up being a good autopsy of the part would be interesting. Depending on the mood an autopsy via forklift, excavator or front end loader might help you feel better. I'm curious to see what you find once you pull the driveshafts and get to checking and removing parts.

Doh! How easy it it to spin the driveshaft with the transfer case in neutral? The NP208 is pretty easy to rebuild if you want to try it yourself. A seal and bearing kit can be had for less than $150, and a new chain for about $100.

Got my spare transfer case back together (finally got the right bushing). Got a little bit done on the bracket for my power steering filter. Going to put a Peterson 100 micron filter on it to filter out any big chunks and act as a bit of a cooler.

Put a sleeve on the front output flange of my transfer case. I was going to fix the leak by swapping cases but plans to do that were foiled by the lack of one bushing to install in my spare transfer case. At least this way I won't be dripping oil everywhere I go, and I will have more time to...

Yes, there are three on each fork... but you never know what you will find wrong till you open it up. I pulled one apart today that came out of a 60,000 mile CUCV that never saw the road after it was auctioned. It was missing the brass syncro (for lack of a better description) had one really...

Started rebuilding another NP208 to put under my rig. The old one decided to spring a pretty good leak out of the front output seal.

Swapped out an injector with a failed nozzle. Mystery cheap Delphi injectors, not sure what caused it to fail. Had less than 10,000 miles on it.

High likelyhood that the cam and solenoid are gummed up on your wiper motor. Try unplugging everything, take the plastic dust shield off the wiper motor and cleaning it out a bit, then give it good spray down with dry silicone spray. Mine was doing the same thing about 6 months ago.