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Have your friend see if the glow plug relay is cycling properly after a cold start, that'd be easy enough to explain and diagnose long-distance. Could be that the plugs are fine, but that the system isn't functioning properly.

Hey Glen, what's the turnaround time been for y'alls EUCs on the trailers? Just curious, as there's a few auctions coming up that I hope BFR wins, and I'm trying to plan a visit when they arrive... ;)

Couldn't find my calipers, but with a tape measure: 2-3/4" long ... 1/2" diameter ... 7/16" up from the end to the cotter pin hole

I used a good couple feet of 3/16" hose and a small amount of 5/16" hose when I replaced mine. The rubber connecting block at the vacuum valve (at the injector pump) on my truck was damaged, so I removed it and connected the vacuum lines directly.

It would have to be, I believe all of the CUCVs were assembled at Flint. For what it's worth, that photos shows a truck in MERDC paint, possibly a pre-production model?

Could it be coming from the very rear of the valve cover on the passenger side? I've got a (similar) single drop of oil hanging from my starter every time I look under there, but never a drop on the driveway...

There are two of them, one on each side of the block. Probably not worth trying to remove during a normal coolant flush, though. .

The red box near the fuel filter in that schematic is the diode for the water in fuel circuit. Rear of the engine, near or behind the vacuum pump. Here's a photo of it, courtesy of Warthog. .

Mine does the same thing, I think it's the opaque-white washers not sealing 100%. Next time I drop my pan for a filter change, I'm going to put a very small bead of RTV under each of the washers.

The M1008 seat bolts are independent of the seatbelt bolts, for sure.

Always wanted to put a service/utility bed like that on my M1008. Cool photos, Dale!

The soldier standing between the dark-colored crate and the UTV at the beginning of the video, who puts both of his hands up into the air? Luckiest guy I ever seen.

Inspired by Iceman3005's license plate holder, here's my take on mounting my tag. 1" x 1-1/2" rectangular tubing welded to a 6" x 12" plate, with a 1" hole cross-drilled through the tubing to fit the shackle pin. ...

Better, in that you can easily disconnect the battery cables without having to loosen the terminals. Apologies to the OP for any thread drift, wish I could be of more help with the starter woes. I replaced all of the cabling in my truck except from the 24v bus bar down to the starter...

Per the schematic in the TM, it says the inter-battery cable is supposed to be 4-gauge in stock form. Which seems odd, considering the rest of the high-current cabling is all 2-gauge...

There should be a 10-gauge wire connecting the negative terminal of the front battery to the core support. Assuming that your truck is still 24v, there should also be a 2-gauge battery cable running from the negative terminal of the front battery to the negative terminal board (bus bar) on the...

Ditto the above, are the ends of the rubber cooler lines indeed a standard AN fitting? I keep seeing references to "AN" when discussing the oil cooler lines lately, but the term is too short for a search of the CUCV forum.

:ditto:

You ought to be able to use 4" bolts without any clearance issues. ...

Fill them tools and use them as mobile repair workshops for anything, anywhere that needs fixed. Welder and torches, large work lights, air tools, fluids transfer, you name it, the M1031 can do it.