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It's everywhere!

You are welcome to call me and we can help you fix, store, and, or haul it. Tim is not in any shape to help last I talked to him.

Was being smartass, but you are overlooking the inside of the bead. It will need to be raised also. The safest and probably cheapest would be to buy some 17" shells or junkyard steel wheels and cut and weld them to the humvee 16.5" wheels.

Why not go up to 20" and use Hemmet rims?

Juan I would suggest using a standard cable lube then apply the coating that Simp has suggested. I am fairly certain the military used cosmoline. https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

Steam and dawn dish soap works pretty much on everything. And it won't damage anything most of the time.

Are you still running humvee rims? If so 65 psi sounds a little extreme, maybe do the chalk test. Most of the humvee rims are stamped 55 psi max.

Almost every wrecker i have seen has been modified in some way or other. Very few were left bone stock

Who has experience removing the body from a exspando van?

Has anybody removed the bed off a machine shop truck? Need advice on doing this.

Has anybody else had a problem with the rear shock axle mounts? The lift has rolled the rear axle up in the front enough that the passenger side shock won't mount.

Got to build a 1028 with 6" Skyjacker lift, 37" humvee 12 bolt wheels and tires, front & rear 2" receivers for winch and trailer use.

Best mounting points I have ever seen were along the outside of the frame, under the bed from the rear, with a hole drilled in the foot of the spade and a wing nut used to hold it to the body of the truck.

Diesel doesn't need stabilization like gas but might want to add algaecide. I am adding the extra tank to my USMC 1028, already have the dual tank bed on the truck. But I think I will use the 5 ton dual tank valve and just let the stock switch change which tank the gauge is reading.

What is the scrambled mess of links in the lefthand corner of the picture?

Can we know from were? I need to change the windshields in my guntruck.

Sounds like you cut up a set of axles from 102" trailer to fit 96" trailer? You could always just use a set of the M35 to 5 ton adapters, but I would like to just change hubs also if a 10 bolt set will swap. simp5782 knows more about swapping hubs around than I ever will, might get him to chime...

Okay so I would drain all the coolant and remove the lower radiator hose and look athe the inside of the radiator there to check how clogged the radiator is. I have seen many of these trucks that looked good from the top that had several inches of mud like buildup in the bottom of the radiator.

I would say that the outrigger out and dangling but only about a foot away from the bed of the truck would be all that is needed. That's what I was told to do but never have. Only rear cable I have ever broken was on 816 that I was overloading, pretty sure all of the 936's will bypas before...

Unless you need the truck back up and running ASAP I would go ahead and do full rebuild. It is so easy if you have it down that far to at least check out all the bores and if anything is wrong change it. Also to clean out everything fill with gasoline and then diesel it should come out very...