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Problem solved: Pinion nut was under torqued. Replaced input seal and topped off the oil while I was down there as well.

Yeah I'm tied to NA, so looks like I'll be going with a 6.5. Funny enough I was looking around to try and turn down the redline rpm of the 6.5. I would never dream of putting a 5.9 with a th400. NV4500 all the way, so theoretically I wouldnt loose any top end speed.

Thats interesting. Are we talking about the p-pump? How does it 'sense' boost? I would want a fully mechanical engine, so converting a 24v seems harder than just starting with an already mechanical 12v.

Engine valley is bone dry. I guess I should start looking for a rebuild shop.

Currently, after sitting for a night, if I try to start my truck it takes a good minute of cranking to get it started. Smoking pretty good while cranking, so fuel is getting to the engine. New glow plugs (60g), new fuel pump, new fuel filter (using fm100 base), replaced fuel lines to/from the...

I were to get a military 24v pump, what would I have to change to make it 12v? Is it just the shutoff solenoid? Also does anyone know if the stanadyne pumps meant for vans and motorhomes can be used on a 6.5 no problem?

Just lost the engine that I was looking at so I guess I'll have to keep an eye on stuff for now. Focus on cleaning the truck up and see which engine will be cheaper.

I was mainly looking for information on a 5.9 swap in general. Would've been better just to say it was going to stay turbo, I could've spent less time trying to defend my stance.

I do have a currently running truck. 6.2, th400. Rusty as all ****, but low miles. Im mostly brainstorming for now since I still have a little ways to go paying off the truck. But my reason for a manual is really only because Ive had bad experiences with autos in military trucks. I just want...

Personally I don't care about power at all. 6.5 Would be cheaper. Just comparing the two side by side, a 5.9 being an inline 6 is much simpler in design. But the conversion into a cucv would be costly.

Okay. Still going to make it NA.

I'm not saying it is a na engine. I'm saying I'ma turn it into a na engine.

GEP 6.5 is around 800 fully dressed. Cant find a clear answer on the 12v, and it's not like I'm going to have all the accessories. Just an alt, water and PS pump.

130hp doesn't sound bad..Same as 6.2. I don't care about speed. Just simplicity and reliability. I'm seeing rebuilt kits for around 900-1000.

At a cross roads here. I'm going to swap in a nv4500 either way, so I figured I have two options. I'm going with NA on both simply for reliability. Obviously a 6.5 GEP is going to be drop in, probably cheaper... but I found a 5.9 12v complete engine for $800, 400k, but better than the $4k...

I have dually.

My truck is a dually but just running single wheels. I think I caught it. Only drove about 4 miles with it before the seal started leaking.

Does the Dana 70 use shims or crush sleeve? Saw on another forum someone said Dana 70 uses shims

Previous pinion flange had the u joint bolts snap off in the threads. Replaced the whole u joint, flange, nut and crush sleeve. This is on a m1028, with the Dana 70hd axle, not the GM axle.

Recently installed a new nut and crush sleeve. Torqued it down pretty good, but there is still some play left in the pinion. Small leak, now out of the input seal. Maybe lost 2 ml of fluid.