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Jacksonville is right under DC/Baltimore for horrible traffic.

LO 9-2320-209-12 states 9 quarts, but this doesn't include the oil filter.

Tm 9-1825b Here is a couple of links to the TM, 1944 edition. https://archive.org/details/TM9-1825B http://radionerds.com/images/b/b2/TM_9-1825B_1944.pdf

I was going to take my generator apart to service it, but one of the end screws broke off. I'll save that headache for when it stops working. I think the bearings, brushes, and field coils are the same parts as the autolite 12v generators. The TM you need is TM 9-1825B,Nov.1952 Auto-lite...

Thank you

The coolant temperature gauge on my air compressor had an accident. While removing the temperature bulb from the engine, the capillary tube broke inside the bulb, bye-bye ether. Does anyone have a procedure for repairing this type of gauge? I could replace it with another mechanical temp gauge...

The batteries are 12 volt. They're hooked up in series for 24 volts, and parrallel for increased amps. The best thing is to unhook them and charge them individually with a 12 volt charger.

After Removing the front panel from my air compressor, I have treated the surface rust. I need help on how to tackle the fatigue cracks around the lower mounting holes.

I have the new cables soldered to the pins. I can't get the pins back into the rubber bushing? I had one almost all the way in, the other i can only manage halfway in.

Did you email them or just look on their website? They have so much stuff, they can't list everything. Here are the part numbers for the bolts: stud:7521077 bolt: 7521884 Hope this helps.

After installing my own glass and dealing with the headache's involved, I'd rather pay someone to provide and install the glass. If they break it, they replace it. Watched an installer break the glass installing it into my VW Bug. I'd do my Duece glass myself, but much swearing will be had...

I use a Stanley 1/2 drive 13/16 deep socket. It's long enough to fit the plug and clear the water jacket. Another option is a sparkplug wrench for an aircooled volkswagen, it's deep enough and can be used in tight spots.

More work done I have spent the last month fighting with rusty nuts and bolts. I have been able to get the fenders, headlight panels, rear toolboxes off the truck. Once the air compressor flaps were tied open, I started pressure washing years of wasp nests off the inside. There were a few...

Yes, but you'll need tubes made for radial tires. As far as I can remember.

From a safety standpoint, you should have at least a 3/4inch peice of wood under the jackstand for stability. I've seen jackstands sink into the ground. Wheel bearings suck. I have to tackle all my axles.

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If your deployed area has a junkyard/canabilization point, you should spend some off time collecting parts. I spent many hours in Iraq collecting stuff. Should have taken some tires and a cab.

When you rebuilt the fuel pump, did you use the priming lever toflex the diaphragm while tightening the screws? If this isn't done, the diaphragm won't have enough flex to operate and possibly rip. Also, the NOS kits may not be ethanol compatible. I forget what Chevy/GMC pickup uses a similar...

I don't know if using the civilian H1/Hummer runflat is feasible. It's built from heavy rubber like the military one, but can be unbolted. I miss the old magnesium run flats. Pita to change, but easier than the rubber donuts.

I've used that tool before, it makes the task so much easier. Basically a strap with a worm gear instead of a ratchet action.