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Well I was going to say go to the local junkyard and find a doner truck, but the I saw your in ICELAND! So much for that idea. I think your going to have to do a lot of research online for the wiring and fuel routing. sorry I'm no help.

It's just a little sleepy, check the belt tension on that alt.

Sorry no info on the starter itself, but try jacking the truck up from the frame and letting the axle hang, then set the starter on the spring and connect/disconnect the wires and then put in place. This gives you a bit of a break from holding that heavy thing up there. While your at it remove...

All the above and the motors have a very small electrical contact area, it will need to be cleaned too. No sure who makes it but I've used a spray silicon lube that dries and leaves the rubber and felt dry yet slippery, think I bought it at wally world. It's made for camper windows. Clean and...

I had forgotten about this thread! Yeah time for a new rad, gonna be about $400 or so. The last 2 I bought have been the plastic/aluminum ones and haven't had a problem with either. I'd ditch that external cooler as I don't believe the oil needs it, I would save it and maybe use it for a tranny...

A bad Ign switch shouldn't have any effect on the headlights.

Yes and yes, same kit because all the Alt. are 12v. Well in most CUCV's the ambulance is different.

No, I had the cover off to change the fluid, I didn't even notice it till my son said "WOW look at that", I bought the truck from a guy in NJ that got them from Gov. auction and turned around and sold them. No idea how it got there or who put it there. But like the time I slid down a hill...

I like this answer better!

Now would be a good time to start cleaning all those connections, seeing as everything blacked out at the same time, I'd pay special attention to the main battery cables.

I had a 1008 that had a limited slip of some kind in the front and the Detroit locker in the rear, made for a great plow truck! Not sure if they all had the same set up, someone will come along soon and let us know.

I don't know how they could 'load' test a starter without some kind of geared flywheel, and nobody I know of has anything like that .

It's quite but the leg room sucks!

I've never done a leak down test so keep that in mind. TDC=Top Dead Center, what that means is that piston is all the way at the top of its stroke. Assuming that you have the engine turned TDC on the COMPPRESSION STROKE then both valves are closed. But as soon as you put compressed air into the...

I would start with a good visual check of the wiring starting at the tail lights and work my way forward, somewhere you have a dead short. Come to think about it, I'd start at the switch and fuse panel and work my way back.

Barrman beat me to it, check the rear U-joints. Also check BOTH hubs are in the free position, just because the left one is doesn't meant e right is too. I've never had a lock out hub 'freeze' up but wouldn't hurt spinning that front drive shaft like he said. Take a look at your tires too, could...

Just came back to this thread, this is to late to help you but will hopefully help the next guy. When replaceing the floor pans don't drill the welds out, instead locate and mark all the welds from the inside and then use a grinder to remove just the one layer of sheet metal (thats the floor...

Or just take it to Auto Zone and let them test it.

I missed the low on fuel part! Dump in a few gallons and bleed the system. Also starting fluid ( or anything else like it) and glow plugs DO NOT MIX!!! The starting fluid will ignite as soon as it hits the hot glow plugs and considering it's being drawn into the cylinder with the air the intake...

Well, it needs 3 things to run, fuel air and heat, you know you had all three because it was running so what interrupted what? I don't see the engine suddenly getting so cold the fuel wouldn't light off so the heat portion is out. Air flow, I also doubt that the air flow got interrupted and...