Search results

I actually like how the hummer brush guard fits - but I think I would also bedline that black to match the rest of the truck. some cool mods.

equalizer is the way to go all it takes is the qualizer and 3 cables to the battery box the vanner 50amp ones are available on ebay for ~$100 on ocassion, and they fit behind the passenger seat right over the grommets that the cables for the jumper cables go through. (edit - oops...

could progressives policy may vary by state? I called progressive directly and they had no problem insuring it. - glad i read this thread, looks like its time to shop around again.

if using a light - then use a color of light that is not a common color - something like a bright yellow. when you have red dash lights and another re dlight comes on it can easily be overlooked. but when a NEW color pops on it gets attention.

most likely you will want something to regulate the flow of power (like a charge controller) so that you don't cook off your batteries. if you have trouble finding a properly sized battery charger then you can use a 24vdc power supply and then run it through a solar charge controller before...

I'd be more worried about running synchromesh than ATF - even then not worried about synchromesh

do NOT spray water into the intake, if it stops the engine it will stop it permanently. water doesn't compress and you risk major damage. either block the air flow with something solid or spray CO2 into the intake. if it is going slowly and you have time you can try pulling off the charge pipe...

if someone is really worried they can plumb a line into the intake from a paintball CO2 cannister with either a manual valve or a 24v solenoid valve like the one used on the horn (a spare horn valve may work, otherwise a nitrous solenoid will definately work) if it starts runnign away you can...

I swapped my C for a D - powerband shifted maybe 400 rpm higher, and lower EGT's but best of all is not going deaf at highway speeds. I like the whistler for moving around at low speed, but for anything else it gets old

awesome - my only question is.. can it run on WMO? or is it basically a military version of a wabesto?

with pretty much any of these "cancer causing agents" , a short exposure will do no long term damage. the guys that really had to worry were the ones dealing with it regularly.

if you are going to the trouble of making a dolly why not slap an electric winch onto the trailer tongue.

been following your progress for a while - I'm IN

plasma cut a few square holes in the frame and used carriage bolts to mount a free class4 hitch with a 10" drop stinger. now i just have to wire up a 24v to 12v relay box for the trailer wiring.

exactly - all we really need is to know the bore and stroke of the single master cylinder. then we can properly size a dual chamber master cylinder and fab up a simple mounting adapter. then add a second air-pack and run the brake lines. done.

run hoses to a central vent, or better yet hook up a low pressure regulator and run 1psi of pressure to them to keep water out.

is it just my eyes? or is the rear window on your hard top off center?

sorry, i meant pitman arm

if you really want to find out how strong your valves currently are you'll have to take them out and test, or remove the exhaust manifold, make a flat plate to cover a single exhaust port and pressurize till it opens the valve. i doubt there are any hard numbers already available for this. I...

that is the setup I plan to run - minimal modifications. retains the stock box and functionality, can still go to a longer stearing link if desired.