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Which is why I reread it all ever so often. Yes, it's not as easy as being spoon fed, but not exactly a hardship either.

I really don't ask much from my FLU tires. Other than that they're not radials, not old, and have decent tread pattern for dirt. With no use for the improved handling and fuel mileage that a radial can offer, I prefer a bias ply's stronger sidewalls and general longevity as far as aging goes...

I don't even want to think about what those would cost. Unless you buy a set of well aged surplus ones. Okay, so they may not have aged well, but they are usually aged.

Isn't that rear tank for trailer brakes? If so, you don't really need it.

Congratulations! Looks like 532 hours, though. Still, not fully broken in yet...enjoy.

Tractor Supply isn't best known for its quality hardware. I'd get quality bolts from Master McCarr, or somewhere similar. Unless you only want the bolts to keep the FOPS from falling off.

I figure that if the level goes down in the canister (and nothing is leaking out anywhere), then the system is working.

While compressed air can apparently freeze its water content at fairly high temperatures, I don't think you need to worry in Texas. Case in point: The one thing I stole off of what was supposed to be the parts SEE (before realizing that it's a great running machine) was the alky injection...

I remember seeing a few for sale. Worst case, it wouldn't be all that hard to make one, once you have template of the shape.

When/if you do get into rock, that pin-on ripper makes a huge difference I've noticed. Hopefully you got one with your FLU.

That makes two of us, rtrask. I always figured that if I was given a backhoe to operate on perfectly flat ground, I'd have it on its side within 20 minutes. Thankfully, that still hasn't happened, which is odd. One thing that might help me a bit is that I run the engine at low rpms, so I can...

Hah! I have two things in my favor. For one, they don't auction off five or 10 per week like they used to. And more importantly, I don't want any more FLUs at this point. Actually, I'll probably sell the HME. Maybe even an HMMH. Maybe. Although, I still wouldn't mind having a parts car.

I dunno. The two best ones, from a mechanical standpoint, I've had looked the worst. Both intended to be parts cars. The one I use the most these days has forklift dents, mismatched paint, etc. Turns out it was all but completely refurbished but never repainted for some reason. I don't mind...

Optilube is what I use in the 3500 in the summer. Depending on when I get fuel delivered for things that stay on the property, like the FLUs, the supplier uses Howes if it's a fall or winter delivery. Not wanting to mix different brands, that's what I add to the tanks and vehicles as needed, too.

I don't know if the 911 is bad for the injectors, but it's not something you should use unless the system is already gelled up and you need to get going NOW. Regular anti gel can be used all the time without hurting anything. It's usually mostly a lubricity additive that also has anti gel...

If it's a Ram, it must be a 2010 or newer. Those should not smoke, no matter what (if it's stock). I have disconnected that potentially troublesome grid heater on my '17, and it still doesn't smoke much (a little bit, maybe for two minutes) at -10 or less. How much, and what kind of anti gel...

It wasn't the anti gel that made it smoke. They can put out quite a bit until warmed up, even when it's only zero degrees. Lower temps yet results in even more smoke.

For the FLUs it's not an issue. I have to put anti gel in the storage tanks when the fuel is delivered, since the supply generally lasts me a couple of years. For me, the odd one is the Ram 3500. It's driven so seldom that I often end up driving on winter fuel in the summer, and vice versa.

It's been discussed in this very thread. But unfortunately I don't remember in what literature the gas was mentioned. And yes, diesel #1 is what the winter fuel is referred to as. If you lived in a colder climate you'd get #1 in the winter whether you want it or not.

Well, when it's recommeded in the manual (for winter use), it could be considered approved, I'd think.