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Mine starts in subzero weather all the time, without using the built in ether setup. But one of them injects some ether at every startup all by itself, which I don't mind since I like the smell. Anyway, since the factory included ether injection, it can't be all bad to use starting fluid. I'm...

In today's market, even $8K may not be bad at all. And it does have a hood. Unless the electrical system is ruined by rodents I'd go for it...if I wanted another one.

It's just a strainer. But a very expensive one.

When I change the fluid, first I retract as many cylinders as far as possible, then drain the tank. In your case I'd run the hydraulics for a little bit, then repeat the procedure. After all, hydraulic fluid is a lot cheaper than the parts it's operating in. And much easier to change.

Yes, it does indeed take a while for the gauge to show pressure. At least as long as it does to lift the loader and get the trans in gear. But like Migginsbros pointed out, it sure sounds like the engine has oil pressure even though the gauge isn't showing it yet. In the beginning it felt...

Oh, and there's one thing I'll do my best to remember for next time I drive that one in -10 temps, or less. Instead of raising the loader and driving off within a few seconds of starting the engine, I'll let it run for a minute or two first. After all, the fluid (whether SAE 10 or AW-32) isn't...

Not sure if I ever operated that one at around -20, but it seems that it can start foaming at around -10. In the rear, the outrigger cylinders leak, and have ever since they were subjected to some serious mud immersion, but the rear system has never acted up. In the front, there's a little...

All I have to do is shut the engine off for maybe five minutes (since in my case it's the front system) and the fluid goes back to normal. Although, this last time I didn't even do that. Whatever was going to leak out already had.

Considering that the fuel tank was literally full of water when I got that one, maybe I shouldn't be surprised if there's some in the front hydraulics, too. Then again, it got new hydraulic fluids asap, so who knows? I can live with it puking once per year or thereabouts.

Is it something like this that makes you think there's water in the tank? One of mine has puked out about a gallon three times over the years, and I suspect that it's just aeration due to cold fluid since it has only happened when it's around -10 or less. For whatever reason, that's the only...

How did you determine that there's water in the system? And is it the front or the rear system?

Not really. I have wrenches, and wire. Driving to somewhere where they sell Power Probes sounds like work.

Being lazy, as usual, I test the fans by bridging the thermostat on top of the cooler. Removing two bolts and using a jumper wire is so easy that even I can do it.

It wasn't long ago that I looked at the fans and thought "If one dies, I'll just leave it dead. If both die, so what?" As peakbagger mentioned, I keep the engine at fairly low rpms for the very most part, and combined with ambient temps that are almost always below 80 degrees, the fans have...

Well, as I recall the FLUs are rated to tow 16,000 lbs. Much more than my M1008 ever was, even when stock.

Hmm. Sounds like you wouldn't approve of pulling one with an M1008 then, which is what I normally use. And it's been shorted by 31 inches and has no bed, so not quite at 16,000 lbs. like a FLU.

I can't remember if I've ever pulled the water buffalo behind a FLU, or any of the other ex-military trailers. But I have used them for moving Class 8 trailers, with a con gear. And also for flat towing a Jeep and a John Deere Gator. Anyway, I've converted most of my bumper pull trailers to...

Like many of us, you have questionable electrical connections to deal with. I'd go through them before buying any parts. Clean the fuse holders, check all grounds, etc.

I'd be surprised if you find LEDs in there. But the basic 24 Volt bulbs should be available at NAPA, or other parts stores. Also, I'd be surprised if the bulbs already in there aren't good. The odds that both have gone out must be pretty slim.

I tried shifting into high on the splitter once, just to see what the difference was, so I' no expert on this. But if I remember correctly, the clutch interlock switch must be activated or the shift won't happen. My clutch interlock switches aren't all that dependable (obvious when starting)...