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Yea y0u might get a brief(less than a second) current spike up to ~300A, but the average crank current should be down in the 150 ish area…

Ok, on that tune you are probably going to ramp pretty steadily from ~300ft/lb at idle to ~800 ft/lb at 1450RPM. Thats ~72 ft/lb of increase per 100 RPM. If you advance the pedal slowly and note at what engine RPM the truck starts to move, we can get an idea how much engine torque it is taking...

Uuuh, that label says 330HP?

I forget which engine do you have?

What Superman said, on the bellhousing just to the rear of the first fuel filter/primer is a tach that senses the 133 tooth flywheel ring gear. Is already connected into the wiring and wired up under the drivers dash and on into the center of the console…

Do you have a tach, and do you know your vehicle weight? RPM during that 2nd gear start up a 10% grade and your weight would give us an idea exactly how "strained" that type of a start is...:)

no, all the A1 trucks(green circuit board power panel or PDM boxes) have both 12v and 24v ignition relays located under the panel frame. your A1 has 4 bolt heads visible on the A1 panel, 12v batt, 24v batt, 12v ign and 24v ign. Myself personally I would do away with the PPD and put the diodes...

yea using a 24-12 converter mostly removes the need for the diodes. it in itself is polarity protected, so if 24v is hooked up backwards it wont output 12 anyway... On the A0, you need 12v to turn on 24v ign, so that only leaves the 24v circuits that receive batt power directly in potential...

Except that PMCS procedure skips a simple step... Read the ring around the primer pump. you need to pump the water/fuel out the bottom of the filter bowl using the primer, when you open that drain. if you open the bowl drain and it start sucking air into the bowl, that means your bypass...

Exactly, Most all manufactures provide polarity protection at the individual electrical modules, with diodes on their input, they simply will not flow current backwards... Do the systems in the LMTV do this? That is anyone's guess without some research and testing... LED lights wont work...

1. The A0 PPD is simply diodes and a heat-sync. the alternator does NOT go thru the PPD, it simply connects to the battery cables on the PPD 12 and 24v BATT terminals. The combined output of the ALT/BATT system(those 2 work together), passes thru the diodes to reach the main power panel. 2...

Well I imagine it would be similar to running them with standard size tires and 3.07 gears and I am aware of a few that are doing that. None have any issues I am aware of. The C7 and 3126 have a little lower peak torque RPM, so I do not think it will be a bad match, and a little under pk...

Thats the best way IMO, run a common straight 24v alt and use a converter from your 24v battery to feed the 12v loads.

Yes, except where he initially shows the wires initiating. The 2 + tetminals on tge 2 batts closest to the frame are 24v. The middle 4 terminals tied together(2+,2-) are 12v. Tge 2 - terminals farthest from.the frame are -/gnd. You are basically removing the forward 2 or rear 2 batteries......

Well that would still leave all the preceding wiring(battery to starter and alternator hot, and since it is buried in the middle of the truck, not as easy to access and install…

I am thinking the switches are simply backlit, and do not indicate switched state(thats in the indicator panel). Could be just light passing thru the switch lense at a different angle…

Yes interrupting + 12 and 24 at the batteries is a good place to do it, thats how they did it on the A1… the issue with using a single interrupt on the ground leg, is it is not completely safe for maintenance. It will keep any individual 12or 24v circuit from flowing current but there is still...

Mmmm wireless...:)

Well because of all the e1s and e2s you are going to have to trace out the cables anyway… you have two ground leads, one to the starter, one to the nato plug. Connected to the 2 battery terminals farthest from the frame that are jumped together. you have one 12v lead to the polarity box, it...

If you had a 12v alternator with an isolated ground(ground as a second output, not attached to its chassis), you could put it in series with a normally chassis grounded alternator, just like you can wire two 12v batteries, or 2 solar panels in series +to-. The batteries would be connected - on...