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Why didn't you have a plan before you bought them? Maybe your subconscious is telling you need to also buy a 5ton to put them on.:beer:

SLEA, If he doesn't want to negotiate then I would walk away. To load your stuff on a trailer you can rig a jib pole with snatch block/cable and use your daily driver as the winch. Then you just gotta figure a way to move the tug. Edit-I would loan you my Massey tractor if you were closer.

I was reviewing the tm9-3830-501 for winch maintenance and see the front winch has a capacity of 9,500 lbs (page 1- 8 ). Is this correct? For some reason I thought they were rated for 20,000 lbs.

work in progress

Has your fuel viscosity meter (fuel density compensator) been bypassed?

To check the cylinder seals....take both cylinder lines loose from the poppet. Rig up an independent air line (say from your shop compressor) to the forward sprag line, pressure it up and check for air leaking out of the reverse side. At this time you can also jack up one tire and check to see...

Before and after.

My truck is 5 ton but no it's not common to find the wheel pattern on tractors. I cut the centers from my original 5 ton wheels and welded them in the tractor wheels.

First off thanks Danger Ranger for the advice, but I'm not thin skinned or upset. I'm just the type person that will defend himself and/or my decisions. Let me share how I came into ownership of this truck. Like I stated earlier my original plan was to build something lighter on 5 ton axles...

Take a multi-meter with you and check the voltage at the batteries. I recently had a regulator problem and was getting 32 volts to the batteries.....fried them and blew my high beams before I caught it. Oh and congrats on the bobbed truck!!

Thank you glad to be here.

Still have the tandem set-up and it can easily be put back. It's a mute point because I could care less of the value of my truck or yours.....because I have no intentions of selling it.

That's what I been thinking. And I started this thread under mods and hotrodding which includes bobbing....so i don't understand all the drama directed toward me. If it's all about keeping a truck original then you shouldn't see any of the older trucks with super singles or anything like that....

I didn't research how people are bobbing trucks so it may be common knowledge. But here's what I did. The front drive shafts in these trucks are roughly 12" longer than the driveshaft from the tcase to front rear axle of a tandem setup. I used the length of the front shaft to determine axle...

Plan was to put 5 ton gear under a chevy frame/body. Couldn't bring myself to strip and scrap the truck and also it runs like a top.

I think the axle was already weak or damaged. It also appears cast from a different metal than the others. It doesn't have the lathe marks around the splines either like the other 3.

Thanks. A week is a long time.....I also have managed to break an axle on one outting and get stuck on another (took a 250HP 25,000lb dualed out tractor to recover it).

Depends on camera angle which looks bigger...lol

Installed manual 3-way valve to give me the 2wd option.

All are 18.4-34's. It appears that way because the rears are R-2's. They have less sidewall rubber and the deep cleats make up the height difference. The rears actually measure out to be 1" taller.....in turn makes me have to spin the rears faster than normally to engage the front.