Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Dam that motor is caked!
Ive had tons of older GI's have fond memories of this thing with all sorts of stories. Few of actually 4 wheeling though.
From my reading the truetrac would be the direction i would want to go. Pricey but it appears to be the best of the three mentioned. Are those...
The most we've gotten in the 13 years I've lived here at one time is 18 inches. But when i was younger we lived in front royal and got over 3 feet. '96 i think. It actually does fantastic in the snow and mud open. Eventually we are planning to move back into the mountains here and then mud...
Ive been doing some reading on front differentials and the difference between open, limited slip and true lockers. I do plan on keeping my truck road worthy and it needs to be able to handle snow and ice. Im certain I have an open dif up front. I'm fairly sure from my reading that I dont want...
I just had to bleed my fuel lines from a motor swap. I would highly advise whats been stated already about pressurizing the fuel tank with air to get fuel to the filter and to the IP. Before you start cranking the motor and instead of cracking the fuel lines at the injectors I took out the...
Any suggestions on where to find one of these rotors? So far I've come up with nothing, one i managed to find is not a fit. And the other is asking over 100$ for one.
I have access to a press. Do i push the whole assembly off the shaft?
Im not sure what the part number is so the best Ive found for a whole rotor is 65.
I had a similar issue, mine also wouldn't stay in N, If I recall correctly there is a bolt that adjusts the shifter. If it is too far adjusted in either directions it can cause issues with shifting into 4wd and neutral. As long as nothing is missing simply adjust until it shifts like it should.
Recently put a new motor in my m1008, after getting it running discovered that my drivers side alt(gen1) isnt charging the battery. After some troubleshooting via the stickies I figured that the alternator was at fault and not the truck end wiring. I ordered a new alternator so this rebuild is...
Took a lot of short trips but the truck is finaly running.
The lift pump was installed incorrectly. Took forever to get that push rod to stay up and get the pump in. Fit like a glove once it was in. Why on earth would anyone put something in such an awefull spot...
The check valve on the...
I had to quit for the day and get the truck moved out of the way of shop opperations. Before I did I decided to check one last time if there is fuel actually flowing at the filter while cranking and it is not. I had fuel at the filter due to pressurizing the tank, but did not double check...
the IP from the old motor is still on the old motor. The new motor has its original IP on it still. I was to understand it was test run before it was shipped.
I have 12v power at the pink and both green wires going to the IP. I took these clips apart and gave the a good once over with 400...
Figured out the fuel tank pressure. I have fuel at the filter now. Probably saved a significant amount of time there. 1 more 10sec cranking interval still no fuel at the glow plug holes. Gonna let it rest and go for round 3.
Making sure to give it 5mins between cranking while replying here. I had to replace the fuel lift pump unfortunately. It was the one thing that got damaged while putting the motor back in. the nipple on the bottom got pinched and it seemed wiser to replace than to try to bend that nipple back...
Things checked so far.
12v at pink wire affirmative
Removed glow plugs for easier cranking,
1st cycle of cranking, now resting still no fuel. Battery posts warm but not hot like yesterday.
I also removed the one questionable wire and tested it for resistance to ground and positive wire...