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About 20 pounds to shift. In and our are about the same. I think I'll keep the linkage from the pto to the frame and tie in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is all true but the cable thing can be accomplished for well under $100 and less than 2 hours work. Don't have to worry about adjustments or anything like that. Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

I'd like to do the exact same thing. Keep the lever to control dump and find a new way to engage the PTO. I've been looking at a standard cable setup to engage. Air would be nice but cable is simple and cheap. I'd love to go full hydro to make winching a 1 man operation but fixing the pto...

I struggle with the same issue. Mine is a winch truck which causes more difficulty. I've considered switching to an engine driven clutch pump and putting a hydraulic motor on the winch to get rid of the PTO. Would make winching easier and solve my PTO linkage problem. Sent from my iPhone...

What caused the tire damage? Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Sometimes you have to push away from the computer and physically check. Thanks for clearing everything up! Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Once the 1400's are wore down the 395' s will be my next tire. Hard to toss them now as my steers are 95% and drives are 80%+ Unless a find a killer deal on 395' s... Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Hey guys, Old thread but I've been working my M817 a lot recently so I'll add some info here. I had around 8.5 tons of broken concrete in the bed with equipment trailer excavator in tow. Around 55k total. Power is the limiting factor! Any hill drags you down quickly and 5th gear is useless...

Can you elaborate? Is it sucking air? It's a very simple setup. 3 supply ports and 3 return ports. Has it ever worked? Give us some info to help diagnose this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you buy it? Will they let you exchange for a regular size? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably bridge truck dog bones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get all of the old stuff out as best you can. If going to DOT 3, I'd flush once or twice with the old lines, replace them then flush/bleed one last time. The reason I went to DOT 3 is I didn't want cost to limit the cleanliness of my break system. Just keep flushing until all wheel cylinders...

All of the info needed is in this thread. Start at the beginning. Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

I would order the correct size online and have it shipped. A single circuit brake system isn't something you want to cobble together. Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

Anyone successfully used this bracket on the NHC250? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Question for the guys who've done this. How's it holding up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remove old lines and drain any fluid that you can out of the system, most will come out when you pull the lines. Then fill the master cylinder and start bleeding. Mine wasnt too bad but I ended up doing it twice over the course of about a month since I replaced the lines after my first flush...

That sample just confirms that the system is overdue for maintenance and a flush. At this point, you'll be replacing all of the fluid so use whichever you want. Are the brakes working good currently? If so, your MC and air pack are probably fine so replace the rubber lines and flush flush...

In addition to what he said, DOT 5 will also lose its purple color over time and look more gray like the sample you have. It's likely a mix of DOT 3 and 5 as stated above. Sent from my LG-M210 using Tapatalk

If it's been changed over DOT 3, it's plenty easy to continue flushing the system with the same DOT 3 to make sure it's fresh and clean. Mine came that way and I flushed it one more time when I got it as preventative maintenance. Lots of Miles hauling heavy without issue. Was hauling gravel...