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I highly recommended bypassing amp gauge. Go to www.madelectrical.com and then click on bypassing the amp gauge. They do a step by step on a dodge truck. Thec reason for doing it their way is a lot of voltage is lost at firewall bulkhead. I did this on my truck and head lights are bright now...
They orignally had the slinger as mentioned but I've seen plenty of trucks with the 413248 seal in the inner and outer position and they seem to work just fine.
The inner seal was more of a lip seal or dust seal. No one makes it anymore. I've used and I've tore down other axles that had the same seal on the inside as the outside. Either way don't go without one at all.
I know you mentioned that you removed gas cap, but was it left off while it was being driven. I had a car once that the gas cap wouldn't vent and it did what your truck was doing after just a few miles down the road
I entered your VIN on the decoder on ramchargercentral.
You entered the VIN Number: D24JE9S234601
D2
MODEL DESIGNATION
D200 or D300 for 80
4
BODY TYPE
Conventional Cab W/Sweptline (Standard Box)
E
ENGINE TYPE
318-1
9
MODEL YEAR
1979
S
ASSEMBLY PLANT
Warren Plant No 1
234601...
That is a 79 grille BTW. There is 2 styles of grilles in 79. Lower end models have large round headlights and the grille your has pictured. Higher end models have quad rectangle headlights. 1980 model year all have round headlights from what I've seen. I think your truck is actually a 80...
DO NOT use the linkage to adjust shift timing. At WOT the lever on trans needs to be at all the way back. Set it there and leave it. Its for line pressure and not shift points. Shift points are controlled by the governor springs on tailshaft.
There is another thread on here about the fuel senders. You can get a brand new one for $117.
To test the gauges you can ground out the sensor wire with the key on. The gauge should swing all the way over. If it swings over then the gauge is good and the wiring is good. Problem is then the...
If your talking about the Dodge headlight switch(not the black out lights) then to remove the pull rod you have to reach under the dash and push in on a button and the pull rod slides right out.
Most likely it is not the fuel gauge that is bad. It will be the sending unit in the tank. I doubt...
I've never tried but there is 2 bbl adaptors capable of going from small 2 to large 2 bbl. But the intake is still to restrictive. Best thing to do is get edelbrock performer and put a Edelbrock 500 cfm carb on it.
The horn needs really good contacts in the steering wheel. Make sure the brass strips are clean. It carries the full amperage through the steering wheel horn button. Might be a good idea to add a relay.
That Alternator looks like a factory 120 amp but with the wrong brackets. Wiring definitely needs upgraded. The voltage regulator is fine as it doesn't carry the amperage.
All non performance Chrysler engines from late 60's to 82 were Chrysler blue. Performance engines to about 72ish were...
Any of the 70's should fit. 81 and newer is different. Tilt columns are different too and generally have the ignition switch under the dash. Don't switch to tilt unless you get all the associated parts.
Do away with the ammeter gauge. There is a how too on madelectrical.com and plenty of information on ramchargercentral.com I did the modifications per the mad electrical how-to and my head lights are super bright now and turn signals work as they should. Best thing i've done to my truck.
parts stores can look it up by year and by carb type. Assuming its a 318 with a carter BBD. They could just get you a kit that covers your year for a BBD. Carb kits generally cover many years or the whole production run of a carb model. You don't have to be specific with the number on the tag.
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