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That did occure to me and I verified that I dont have it reversed. In fact you cannot fit the green connectors on the fuel cut off solinoid contact since it is too large

I ended up getting the one from Boyce. It’s a CUCV pull out. It’s running great now. Turns out the high idle/ timing advance temp switch was working properly which for some reason is why my injection pump wouldn’t work when it got hot an cut voltage to the solenoids. I don’t understand it but...

Well here’s some new info. So I bypassed the sensor today and the truck ran great with no problems until I turned it off my self about 15 minutes later. In that time the thermostat even opened. So it seems like I have made progress. The truck started up with no problems on the first time, which...

no thats not what I'm looking at. what I'm looking at is inside the standyne DB-2 injection pump under the pump cover. I'm talkingabout part 14 on part 13 in the diagram. All is seems to do is block off the return connector and I'm not sure how that advances the timing.

What does the timing advance solenoid actually do? It looks like the plunger actually connects or contacts anything in the lower part of the fuel pump. If I'm right it looks like when the solenoid is energized the plunger pushes up and either opens up the check valve on the fuel return connector...

except that the engine is still cold enough for the glow plugs to come on and there is still no voltage at the timing advance or fast idle connectors when the engine dies even though the fuel shut off solinoid is still engergized.

the lift pump is a good 18mo old one off my blown motor. Is the fuel check valve the one with the glass bead in it on the injection pump? If so its clear.

Sooo. I have the newer engine in my truck now. I have gotten it to fire up (after I had to swap the lift pump out) and it will run for 3-5 minutes and then die on me and I cannot get it restarted until I re purge the system. I'll re purge the fuel filter first even though when I open up the...

It’s hard to tell weather it was coolant or water in the crankcase. I did a test at home where I mixed straight 30-weight oil with just water. And one where I mixed it with coolant. Afterward I couldn’t tell the difference really. Even after a full 24 hours both had only started to separate a...

So my engine swap is going well. I took the oil pan off the 6.2 that I got from Boyce equipment. (They said that the engine came out of a truck with 18k original miles, which I believe due to the total absence of oily residue on the front of the engine like my blown one has after 110k miles...

dont think so since I used one of those things that you test coolant with by looking through it to see the percentage of strength it has.

I'm not sure where the crack is yet. But redoing the head gaskets and having the heads rebuilt, machined and pressure tested didnt solve the issue with the coolant leaking into the crank case. I think that the coolant was fine allthough I didnt test it. When I put it in the previous winter it...

So I decided to just buy a Boyce equippment 6.2 to replace the one I have with a cracked block. I am wondering what might have caused the one that is in my truck now to develope a cracked block. Only thing I can think of was starting the truck all winter at work when it was below freezing. It...

I'll have to look. My only other constraint is that this truck is my daily driver and only vehicle. So since I have been waiting for the last 3 weeks to get all the work done so far I'm trying to come up with a solution quickly. Thats why I was willing to spend more to have the engine I want...

So I know that a lot of this is covered in other threads and I am fairly familiar with the CUCV configuration of the 6.2l Detroit but not the HMMWV one that I will want to put in my M1009 CUCV to replace my current blown engine. If you have been following my other threads you have read that I...

What would happen if I used bar's leaks liquid copper to seal whatever leak I have in the engine. At least until I have the money, energy and time to do an engine swap. Do you think it will be safe for the engine? Do you think the stuff will actually seal the leak as it is advertised?

To be honest a rebuild of a used engine in town for me would cost much more than $250. Its $200 per head to have them totally rebuilt. I know because I just had two done when I thought my blown motor was just a head gasket issue. Now I find out I might very well have cracked block instead and I...

I am going to buy an engine from white owl surplus and I am wanting to get input on what others think of their 6.2's I know they are pull outs with low mileage but is there anything I need to be concerned with. I.e. the contractor who was doing the engine swaps on these hummers removing blown or...

no they didnt. the block was left in the truck

It dosnt seem like there is any gasket in there but I could be wrong. I think that this engine hasnt been messed with much since it left the MFG. Could the factory put silicone on it? The truck was made in September 1985