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The hand crank kind always work. I pumped two 55gal drums full K1 this past summer..then got home and pumped it out.

Was there alot of rust between the head and block? Or was it just poor gasket manufacturing?

I use the goldenrod filter setup on my transfer barrel. I like that you can see the condition of filter and see water collecting in the bottom of the bowl. You can also drain any water out with out taking the filter appart. I believe i paid less than $40 for one with 3/4in npt fittings

I just used RTV to cover the 3in wide hole from the bottom.

If you end up taking the top pannel off for any reason i would replace the return fuel lines. I think you can get those coolant bottles off ebay.

Ops double post.

Those fill strainers can get clogged quite easily...but that does look bad. I soaked mine in Mineral spirits, paint thinner then blew it off with a blow gun. Thats how i cleaned my fuel tank too. although to clean the bottom of the tank i did have to stuck my arm in there with a rag and rub...

I wouldnt buy one of the new units just for the fact that finding a reliable source of moderately priced parts is years and years down the road. The 802/3 are realy noce units and still use relay logic systems. Basicly contacts closing. Have you really decided on what KW you need? Every house...

Not to tight. I did use small zipties to keep the hose on the fittings. You dont need to zip it tight...it wont float away and its not really near the fan.

Good point Light in the Dark. Rotted well nuts usualy mean return lines are not far behind. You can get a 15ft spool of the return line for about $30. On my set i found that every place the return line was zip tied it seeped fuel through the line.

Wet stacking and diesel soot are not the same. With your engine at 44hrs its not even broken in so it may be wetstacking with a small load due to that. I have a 802 that ran a small 4,800btu on/off one night. Looked the same as when i went to bed. Its got 240hrs.

Have you changed the fluids and filters? That spin on fuel filter back in the hole can be a real pain the first time. It usualy requires you to take some pannels off. Grease the O ring on the new one and it will turn off my hand next time.

BelinNC. Have you looked at the simple stuff on your generator? Fluids, fuel lines, batterys? Is it showing any fault lights? Make your own thread. There is alot of ready and willing help on here. Finding someone thats close to you may be a needle in a hay stack.

I had simular issues. It was a diode. Test them on the back left of the electrical box. There really cheap on ebay you can get them in a 10 pack. You got two aligator clips? Cut one out of the working unit and put clips on it. Use that to test the non working one. Keep the clips on the...

Or you could buy a -5 cap and drill/tap it out to 1/8in npt

You really need to check for proper voltage before you go throwing parts at it. Just because its not charging the batterys dosnt mean its the alternator. Did you check the voltage at the back of the alternator? In a pinch you can plug a 24v battery charger into the convience outlet.

That is some odd ball plug setup you have. Why not just make it a standard plug if you buying all the stuff anyway?

I use to be a feet mechanic that had a pair of morbark chippers. There total crap compaired to the brush bandits. Constant software problems was there big issue in the fleet world. To many buttons to push and they really didnt need an auto feed. Not many of our tree crew liked them. They...

Sounds like its time to replace all the return lines and possibly the fuel tank well nuts. How much did you get it for?

I wouldnt expect generac to have any info on it. There more into box store chinese made stuff now. I believe that engine was sold in fork lifts and other industrial equipment.