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There are different base stocks, some dino, some synthetic versions of dino, and some engineered synthetics that are built from the ground up, so to speak, synthetically. I'm pretty aware of the science behind oil and lubricants, additive packages, etc just not to aware of the application...

Meh. Local auto shop had some full synthetic 85/120 for 5$ a GALLON. If it doesn't matter that much, tell me why I shouldn't mix that with a gallon of synthetic 75/90 and dump it in front/rear diffs and call it a day?

If your SHTF plan includes 30k rounds of ammo, you need a new plan.

So, here's the issue. .mil spec says 75/90.. BUT.... Everything I've been reading about 14 bolt 4.56 rears suggests I should be running 75/140 instead. Is it a supply issue? Ie the .mil said 75/90 was 'good enough' since it works on most of their vehicles? Got an M1010, which is hauling a...

Put in manual bypass glow plug switch to relay. Added light on output side of relay to let me know the GPs are getting power. Replaced blower, switch, and resistor.... only have high and medium...think one of the replacement parts might be bad...

3 brand new glow plugs were bad...meaning they left it in run without starting engine.... They can't duplicate the surging but it happened 30 seconds after leaving...sigh.... They tried to bill me for it...I about lost it... I had a huge post written but my battery died and...poof.. When I...

Sorry for the spelling and typographical errors...I'm posting from my cellphone. Eta.. compression test was good after first 'fix'... injectors on the side that were worked on were tested and 'within spec'......I paid $20 ea for that... So...they either screwed more stuff up......or I have a...

Ok...need some insight here and confirmation that I'm not just being super picky. Bought an M1010....wouldn't start...replaced lift pump and added electrical pump... still no joy....cracked injectora..nada.. Took it to a shop..said theyd charge a couple hours labor for diagnostics....They call...

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Tried to figure out why either of my light switches would turn the lights on but both had to be off to have the lights off........when they were supposed to be 3 way... well... someone rewired it...why...I have no clue...but it's fixed now... It's the small victories..

How long do you have to hold it in the start position?

Too much metal.... might get good SWR but radiation pattern will be crap. Signed, the guy who used to do that crap for a living. :-)

Rear heater in M1010 isn't working... Previous agency (SO) ran a new wire to the pump....and the pump works....I can hear it clunk.. The drain at the rear..when opened..dribbles out at a decent pace....more of a surge than dribbles but hard to explain... Hold start position. ... fan...

5050 SMD but there are better out there now... I've had those LEDs for a couple of years. 5630 SMD is the new player in town. 3xx brighter than 5050 LEDs

Viair 444C 100% duty cycle @ 100PSI, 1.6 CFM 5 gallon tank Sound about right? Avg air gun should be about 3cfm? So It should be pretty good.. ..OR.. I can get two pumps, 3.2 cfm, but then we're drawing 40A to supply constant air which is wasteful, IMO..

Still LOTS to do.. Got red LED lighting installed, and wired... Still gotta get all the wire tied up, loomed, etc for EVERYTHING except the lights.. Got rear and both side flood lights installed (LED), rear SignalMaster installed, and a host of other things.. Still another 40-60 hours of...

Mounted strip LED lighting inside the M1010, removed the flourescent fixture (broken, hit my head on too many times). Loomed the LMR240, got it going where it needs to go. Mounted the mounts for most of the radio gear. Tomorrow I have a To Do list that's a mile long...

:sigh: Why ruin a good M1010? They're pretty rare compared to an M1008, why not just trade someone who wants an M1010?

Just add a 12V alternator and be done with it, no need to go wild...

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