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My glow plugs have already been converted to 12v, I'm waiting for my starter to go out before I replace it with a 12v. The wiring in my truck is a mess I'm not even sure how much it has in common with a CUCV anymore. The guy I bought it from blew up the military 6.2, swapped in a 350 small...

Oh that's where I was wrong, I didn't know the second alt was also wired in series I thought it was just isolated and only hooked up to the second battery. Guess I'll get a 24v inverter then, thanks for the info.

That's what I was worried about. What if I put a disconnect switch on that cable that links the batteries? If I'm thinking right that would prevent a short and disable the 24v circuit, but would the alternators still be connected to the batteries right?

But I thought that the batteries were charged separately by each alternator, and only things that are hooked up to both in series are 24v? I'm talking about hooking them up to the inverter in parallel, so the amps are added together. By the way what is the actual amps of the 27si alternator...

I've had a 2000w inverter wired to my front batt for a few years but now I want to wire it to the other battery to get power from both alternators. Wired to the front batt it will run a hand grinder, electric impact, and circular saw, but one at a time not all at once. It will also run a...

Thanks guys, guess I'm going with balance beads then.

No just some aftermarket chrome wheels, they ran fine with the 33s. I'm beginning to think they just didn't balance em.

Old tires are already gone, but I drove it after the zero rates and before the 37's (33's on it then, could see the air in em haha) and it drove fine. Had the tires put on a NAPA I think they didn't balance em. There's weights on the inside but they look like my old weights.

I just installed zero rates in the front and 37" humvee tires, now I have a terrible wobble above 30mph. It feels like more than unbalanced tires, the truck rocks back and forth diagonally. You think the zero rates could have the shocks overextended? If anybody has had this problem before I'd...

yeah I followed the instructions in the TM, the kit I ordered was the right kit (delco remy 27si). You think they sent me a bad voltage regulator.

Thats the same things I did but my light didn't go off.

Ok guys another update, when I unplug the exciter wires the light goes off, and the alt puts out 12.5v. But when I plug them back in, the light comes back on and the alt puts out 16v. I just replaced the voltage regulator.

Well guys I just rebuilt the alternator, it had a bad voltage regulator, but the light is still on. I'm almost certain the problem is in the wiring, but this truck has had an engine swap and half the wires are just hanging loose and the other half aren't hooked up to anything. It is the worst...

Yeah I've seen that happen before too on tractors, I already checked em out and cleaned them up. If you guys think a cucv is a bitch with electrical problems, try an early 90's john deere, first couple years they had computers in tractors, it's a nightmare with all the dust and constant vibration.

yeah good idea, I'm just gonna rebuild it though. I'm gonna rewire this thing one day, I just got new battery cables and post connectors, since the old ones were corroded pot metal, and the 12v cable was spliced in 4 places and 3 different sized of wire, lol. That ain't the half of it though...

Seems like that would make the light dimmer instead of brighter though? I'm just gonna go ahead and order the rebuild kit, it'll need it sooner or later and I wanna keep this truck al long time.

I had the alt tested though. I guess it couldn't hurt to go ahead and get a 27si rebuild kit, I dont trust autozone alternators. Anybody have any other ideas? I'm really thinking it has something to do with the heater since it gets brighter when its on.

Well I grounded it to the second batteries negative post so thats correct, when grounded to the case it reads 24v, The trucks an m1008, and an alternator shop tested it.

I know yall are going to tell me to search, but I've read over 15 pages of topics and no answers. My gen 1 light stays on at medium brightness and gets brighter at hugh rpms and when the heater comes on. I read something about it being related to the heater fuse, but I can't find any blown...

Okay so I finally had time to get a new TC and went ahead and replaced my seals and trans filter, bolted everything back up and adjusted the TV cable, but it still wont go into second. I'm good with diesels in bigger trucks and tractors, but I don't have a clue about automatic transmissions...