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you should be able to get at least 2/3rds output. If you alter the units sensing circuits you can trick it to provide 100%- but I don't know if the windings are designed to carry that much load. I put a link in the following post to a MEP-006 conversion, which is essentially the same as the...

yes- those are generic to the ASK kit. The easiest may be to look at the frequency meter and see what its range is.

I think of it more like the probes that are attached to your vom meter. I know it is Symantics and perspectives..

Bruce- It sounds like you have it right.

Also, If you are not very mechanically or electrically inclined- a surplus generator may not be for you. The majority of the generators we are dealing with here are manually operated. If you need automatic you should look elsewhere.

I still stand by the answer given by the linked page. Read it again. Once a certain level of conductivity is read by the module, a "switch" inside the module will turn the light on. The sensor on the tank is not a switch and is only a probe or sensor used to measure the conductivity. There are...

It is amazing what one can find when using a search engine.

It feels the wetness....very true, this could be read in so many ways..... The more geeky response would be that it is a sort of conductivity sensor- working with a module that tells the dash light when to turn on.

Some general things that I would look at: - truck starts easily when engine is cold and warm - minimal exhaust smoke. - remove oil fill cap when running to check for excessive blow by. - the transmission shifts nicely through the gears - tranny fluid smells good and not burnt. - minimal oil...

Are you looking at buying one in Slovenia? If so- I would pay to have someone look it over for a second opinion. I think parts would be a problem for you.

Just tighten until snug enough that you would never be able to pull the wire out. I don't think you can get a torque wrench in there to actually see st a specific value. Normally it comes with a special wrench to tighten the split bolts. I use what ever I have available.

The starter relay conversion is not necessary- it is recommended to help prevent a runaway starter due to a stuck relay. This happens because the existing relay is not suited for this application. The voltage does not change the need to consider replacement or some other modification to prevent...

I doubt that you fried the resistor, more likely a fusible link. I would not replace it if it is fried- by-pass it to the 12v bus. Search for this if you need more info or help.

By any chance did you try to Google jp8 before you asked? I think everything you have asked about you could have answered yourself.

How about insulation? If you prevent it from losing heat you won't have to heat it - not much in any case. keep it simple....and save money in the long run.

Why would you say he is an idiot? I have put small amounts of motor oil and kero in my tank- no issues here. It is a great way to get rid of used motor oil. Kero and jet fuel are basically like more refined diesel, just less lubrication properties. If it runs well it probably does not have any...

According to the connection chart in the TM, if you connect a load between L1 an L0 you will get 0 amps. The 120V connection is to be made between L3 and L1 (or L0). You should be able to get 104 amps on each line. So I would say that the breaker on L3 would have to be rated ~104A, L1 ~104A...

Did you look at the dataplate? 120 only is 104 amps. If you are connecting to your house you need the 120/240 witch is 52 amps per line, you get two hot wires in this config. 120 only config gives only one hot wire.

I would just look at the data plate. It clearly states 52 amps at 240v. When I size wire for a generator I always use nameplate data. Keep it simple.

Computers don't care much at all about frequency- I would bet your computer will run just fine on 50HZ if that is what you had. The power supplies just rectify the AC to DC, no frequency at all.