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Aha! I hadn't heard or read that. Possibly they are in negotiations with the Gov on fees and terms. They're still selling stuff. just not Gov stuff.... I wonder who else might be in the running for the contact. I'd imagine that the old G/L would be pretty hungry.... Thanks

I haven't been looking for a while, but the "usual" mil surplus generator sales site seems to have gone quiet? No gens, no parts. Perhaps I have been living under a rock, but the mil stuff seems to have disappeared. zarathustra

I had a similar sounding problem with an 802a a while back. It was a low hour unit. It simply would not fire at all. The problem was that the pin in the injector pump that rides in the rail was stuck. I took each injector pump out (always leaving one pump left installed). That pin should...

I read somewheres that the shims affect engine timing. I just took two injector pumps of a scrap 802a engine and there were several shims on each. I will go out and count them. They tend to stick together. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly the shims are peculiar to a pump so one...

I replaced the 802a well nut with a bulkhead nut..... Went in through the fuel float hole since that was closest. I used one of those tie-ons y'all can buy at Home Depot. It worked 'cause I could form the tie to an approximate the shape to deliver the brass fitting to the hole. If you notice...

They did solve the fuel well nut leak problem at the drain hose fitting eventually. In my 2012 803a there simply isn't a drain line. The cutout in the gen frame is there, but the tank has no opening. Interesting solution, but draining the tank could be fun.

Well.... I had thought the current sensor might be bad, but I couldn't imagine what could go wrong with it. I was hoping that someone might have had some experience with a bad one and some failure modes for them. I intensely dislike "shotgunning" a problem... when I replace a part I always...

Do yourself a favor.... get a cordless nut driver with a 5/16 socket attachment. You might want to get a set of nut drivers that will remove rounded heads too. The cordless tool needs to provide lots of torque. You will also need a 3/8 driver and some Balistol or equivalent to loosen seized...

Ok all you gen techs out there. Ever have trouble with a current sensor? If so, what were the symptoms of a bad current sensor? I can't imagine what could go wrong with one of them, but I'd just like to know how a bad current sensor manifests itself. It has no moving parts, and is 100%...

I had a very similar problem with an Mep-802a a couple of weeks ago. The 803 & 802 have the same engine... one just has two more cylinders than the other. My problem was much more severe... started initially, ran for 12 seconds and quit. Took around 5 minutes to get it to start again. One...

When cranking the engine, does it sound as if there is no or low compression? If/ when it does or has started in the past, did it spew a lot of black smoke for a period before it began to run steady?

To hold it in place I used two 4x4's cut to the length of the pickup truck bed and put them in the bed along each side the generator. I then positioned the generator the gen where I wanted it to stay. I then took two 2x4's that were cut to the width of the bed and screwed them laterally into...

It's the 2 cylinder engine. Quick start, dies immediately, then very hard start.... So I took off the crankcase door off and cleaned out a clogged oil pressure relief valve. In the process of cleaning off the old gasket from the crankcase I removed two remaining studs. They came out easily...

Assuming you have the rear panel removed and have access to the fuel sender and liquid level sensor.... The liquid level sensor is sorta in the center of the fuel tank and has a vertical aluminum shaft that has four wires coming out of the top. Try simply disconnecting the wires coming from...

I think I need to teach myself a little more about diesel engine blowback and crankcase pressure (vacuum?).

Aha!!!!! I'll give that a look-see

Thanks for the replies. I've found that most mechanical devices of a single model / type tend to have common failure modes. I am sure that I am not the first person to have an oil leak on a 2 cyl Lister Petter engine. So, I was looking for a common failure mode for oil leaks for that engine...

If I let it run a while it leaks oil on to the fuel solenoid side. It is tough to see where it might be coming from. I'm thinking that the crankcase door gasket might be bad... but that's more guess than anything else. Two questions: Has anyone run into this problem, and what was their fix...

The injector pumps are more likely to be stuck on low hour machines.

By the way.... the voltage regulator is not powered by the 24 volt system. It is powered by a tiny AC winding in the stator that is rectified to dc within the regulator. for all intents and purposes the batteries are not connected to the regulator.