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I got one for $600 from GSA but many parts were missing and it has rust. I've replaced the parts and the rusty parts and it runs like a champ. Your best bet is to preview the vehicles and pick 3 or 4 in the best shape.

Most likely problem is alignment. With a 25 year old vehicle, I would suspect that the underlying cause of the misalignment is worn steering components. Secondary cause could be a brake dragging due to a stuck caliper.

Your answer is probably closer to the truth than most. Unfortunately, the company who crosses the most powerful politician's palms with silver gets the most contracts.

Having been in the military (many years ago), I know how the military tends to steal a LOT of your free time. In addition to your regular job, which often requires you to work overtime for ZERO extra pay, you have your duty shifts where you have to pull 4 to 6 hour watches and extra duty like...

Bolts are standard threads (lefty-loosey, ect). Get a cheater bar and put some heft on the bolt heads. Hope you didn't run the front axle with no lube or you may be replacing a LOT of bearings and parts. Water intrusion is also a problem.

I have been thinking of doing the same.

Being an electrical engineer and knowing a bit about EMP, I know that the voltage and current will be induced by the EM wave as it crosses electrical conductors. The longer the conductor, the more voltage and current will be induced. So, the power lines, copper telephone lines, and cable TV...

Got a garage? Do it yourself. If you can operate hand tools, a torch, and a drill, you can do it yourself.

You all are missing the point. It would be far easier to fill a few fuel containers and then bring them to the APC.:doh:

The unit probably just turned it in that way.

Hook the system up through the fuse box. It's 12vdc and your alternator will take it with no problem.

snowymountainman (newbie) just posted a newbie post.

Like has been said above, the problem is a crappy quality starter relay under the dash that sticks in the closed (on) position. Replace it with doghead's solution and the problem will not bother you again. Yes, you might have fried your starter and will need a new one.

Bleed the brakes (DOT 5 fluid only) and check the brake adjustment. As for the hand brake, loosen the adjustment on the brake handle and crawl under the truck and adjust the nut on the brake lever.

Sounds like it is time to set up a biodiesel refinery.

I have a source for ring mounts that were originally for an MG-42. I don't know how many I can get, but the price will be $600 each plus shipping. I'll get some pics today of one not mounted and post them. The rings look to be about 30" across. Let me know if you are interested.

On top of the fuel shutoff solenoid there is a fuel return line. The fitting on it has a check valve in it. Take the fitting off and clean with carb cleaner and then use a pick to make sure the glass ball inside moves then come back here and report. If you have questions about the quality of...

Get a rare earth magnet and put it in the bottom of the differential housing to attract the pieces of metal you might miss.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the M1009 doesn't have a lift pump in the tank. It only has a mechanical fuel pump. Parts are commonly available at most auto parts stores. When asked, the engine is a "J" code. The "J" code is for the military GMs. Open the bleed screw on the filter...

Go to a local scrap yard and cut some pieces off of the frame of a junked truck or bus and drill your own holes. Get enough so that you can cut pieces to use as gusset plates. For that matter, have the frame extensions welded on.