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The "dirt" that you are seeing on the bottom of the tank may very well be a "biological" (I'm not allowed to call it algae on this board). It can get by the pickup sock in the tank and it grows in the fuel filter, hence pulling the filter housing to clean it thoroughly....and I might add the...

Pull the fuel level sender out of the tank then insert eyeball. Way easier than pulling the tank. Having said that, the tank will probably have to come out. If the tank is clean replace "all" the rubber fuel lines, remove the one way valves and clean or discard them, "remove" the fuel filter...

Ear plugs or David Clarks are so much easier !

Two words........EAR PLUGS.......... you are fighting a loosing battle.

Kirtland.............

"fuzzytoaster" is on this board and is around the F part of DFW. He may have what you need or can point you to a local supply...... My 2 cents.

NOT a professional mechanic here, BUT I think you made a good call on the replacement thing!

You can retro fit the newer style control arms to the early trucks, they have a reinforcement "loop" around the ball joint if my memory serves me (It's the coffee thing again). They get a different ball joint with bigger bolts may be........ it's been several years since I swapped out my 998...

BLACK RIFLE, please! "JUST BLACK".............................. still thinking............................

I think we have someone in your neck of the woods that sell tires from time to time............... I haven't had enough coffee yet to remember who! BUT, I do remember he's north east of Dallas....... maybe............ but not Texarkana.............

The industry may call it a "mud ring or mud lip", if you compare a 5590745 beside a 19832 you will see the difference. My hat is off to you, you apparently have tools and are not afraid to use them. You get to try a second time, no big deal, all of us have had to revisit a repair 1 or 2...

Were the shafts under the seal in good shape??? The OEM seals have two lips on them that had collected water and corroded two shafts on one of my trucks. These can be repaired (and I use that term lightly) with a speedy sleeve. But be advised, this spot with the corrosion "might" develop into a...

The correct tool also helps with tie rods. Hint "it's not a pipe wrench" . They actually make a tire rod wrench that hooks into the split in the end of the tie rod helping to "open" it as pressure is applied. They are not too expensive for occasional use quality. Just my 2 cents.

Unless you had a vibration from it , it's probably still good. It's not uncommon for them to have movement from the rubber bushing. You should see what one of these look like in a class 8 truck. Think dinner plate.

Was there play in the bearing itself or the rubber around the outside of the metal bearing? Thats also called a "carrier" bearing in most places. I also have to go and move my chair into the corner and make sure the coffee is warmed up. I have a feeling I'll be spending some time there!

Haven't laid them out side by side but the TS piece eyeballs to be near identical to the two I have. About $100 in the store if I remember......

Check your local "tractor supply" back in the tractor parts area.....................

On behalf of my grandsons 1123.

My opinion , based on my experience, you need to tear down the entire system, tank out, replace the pickup sock if necessary, pressure wash the inside of the tank, new fuel lines and return lines, make sure the mechanical pump is pushing fuel, "remove" the stock fuel filter housing and clean...

4 wheels on the ground.