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Peter, Glad you are relaxing. Hope you are drinking a beer also. If I could I would buy you one. Kris

If I had a wish list the first thing I would buy is a super heavy duty third hand. Everything on Amazon so far I have seen is trash and will tip over with one ounce of force. This would make de soldering and soldering a lot more easier. It needs to be able to hold a board in place rigidly. Maybe...

Guy, You are very correct. I saw them on Amazon and thought I should buy one a couple years ago when I was creating my drones. But I didn't buy one. Kris

Good you relieved my mind. I was wondering if it was good enough. But also I used an external flux to make sure it spread where I needed it to. That is sold at the same place and used to solder copper pipes together. The solder I used has flux in the core. Kris

This is the solder I used on the yellow wires. Home Depot The wires are still connected to A5. So it would be best to disconnect all the wires and de-solder your way. I agree but I did not do it that way. Your way is better. Kris

The second pic is R3. As you can see the end of the wire is bent. This is the one I discovered the wires where bent. It took a **** of a lot of force to pull it out. So it took a couple beers to think how I'm going to remove them without destroying other parts. In pic two if you look close...

Also when I was flipping the start switch, I had to flip it a lot more now before the starter engaged. Could this be the switch possibly going bad? Kris

Just uninstalled R3 and R8 from the A5 board. They were not easy to take off. Seems the installer bent the wires after poking them through the holes. So I had to grind the solder off and grind the bent portion of the wire. Then they came right off. So this maybe a heads up if anyone wants to...

Guyfang, Once I replace R3 and R8 A5 resistors what would you coat the solder with? Kris

OK Their is another Resister next to the cooked R3 on A5, that seen heat also. Where would I get those Resisters? Good plan while I wait. Kris

Yes Peter I think the people that read this post should know the potential of the damage that can happen to these units and maybe help them evaluate their own machines. So far I believe we have gone through a lot of troubleshooting and testing. It has been a mission for me. The next test will...

It may take a week or two before I can do another test. Kris

Peter, I will package up the A11 and new VR, then send them to you via UPS. Kris

Tested between H1 and H4 and still no volts. But as long as I hold the start in its mode I get 100 volts on the control panel and the hz jumped higher than before. In run no volts or HZ on the control panel. Kris

OK that is good news again. Hopefully I am a very bad elec technician. Kris

Tested H1 and H4 separately to ground with MM set at 250 VAC max. Had gen running in run mode after starting. No volts on either H1 nor H4 on the transformer. Also no volts on volt meter in control panel. Kris

Put the mm on the terminal not the wires where F1 and F2 are disconnected. Got 24vdc in the start mode. Kris

Wow my mistake. Also that can be good news. Will set the mm again Kris

F1 and F2 were disconnected The other adjacent wires were not. used a analogue mm connected to F1 and F2 to the wires not the terminal. Start position and the engine started. Left the engine running for 4 secs with the start still on. No volts between F1 and F2.

No voltage between F1 and F2 in start position. Kris