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I can answer my own question here. It turns out that the plunger and fuel gauge were both stuck. On the Yanmar, the pump is easily removed with little worry about timing or alignment. Removed pump/plunger assembly, cleaned, lubricated, reinstalled and it works great. Now to get it to produce...

Good Evening All, I have this 831a that had overvoltage/short issues several years ago. I looked at it and then got busy. When attempting to operate it in the past, the engine ran fine, until the fault kicked in. Then it would shut down, to the best of my recollection. I have reassembled the...

I'm good, Thank you Though!

Thank you sir! An amazing difference as viewed in my phone.

While I thoroughly appreciate the effort given to publishing the TM's. Is there a better copy of the schematics for the above TM? Specifically pages 581-597? Maybe it's me or my equipment, but I cannot get the pages blown up so they're legible. They get larger and blurrier. I've tried...

I've had great luck with a roll of solder wyck. Just braided flat copper that absorbs the solder when heated. Very neat and clean.

As I understand some of these basic electronic testing procedures, I am going to have to remove the capacitors from the board to test them? I also tested the new diodes and 3 of the 5 are not blocking current. I've also tested the three resistors on the board. I'll have to look for the values...

Nothing looks Correct, nothing looks burnt, no wires off or broken. I don't have access to anything like an exciter bobbin other than what's on the machine. My meter can check capacitance. I guess I should check that in the regulator? I'll pull the regulator and check components individually...

Yes. All the same voltage at the lugs regardless of S8 setting.

The only thing I can change the voltage with is engine speed. That's a nominal change at best. Setting engine speed to produce 60Hz makes 180+/- volts everywhere, except the voltmeter on the dash. That reads 180+/-with the volt/amp gauge to the right or 300+/- on the left.

No

180v regardless of s8 setting or lug.

I did in fact get the hertz adjusted via the throttle. It settled in around 60. I could at not get the voltage to change, other than if I sped the engine up, the voltage increased. I did (after shutting down) switch the voltage/phase switch to the left (416?) and the voltmeter registered around 300.

Well, we have good news and bad news. I put a couple of new batteries in the generator this afternoon and the engine fired up and ran flawlessly. The bad news is, after putting 5 new diodes in the voltage regulator, I'm still in the same boat. Although slightly less than before, I now get a...

They looked discolored and had some white powdery stuff coming out of the ends. With the voltage issues, this was the most logical component to repair first.

I have the diodes removed from the board. I have some nsn #'s and part #'s. nsn - 5961-00-981-6392 I found some info that says this nsn is no longer used, It crossed to nsn-5961-00-811-8372 and 5961-00-156-0618 part # JAN1N3189 The number on the diode itself is- JX5614AXK or KK Where...

the The heatgun is an excellent suggestion. I was careful not to change or move the shims and keep track of the injectors locations, so could the timing be an issue? For sure I'll check the heat first. Thanks!

The #2 pump was stuck, although not with any visible varnish or sludge. It also was harder to turn the valve in the pump. I cleaned and polished them, (metal polish and a piece of paper) as to not scratch or gouge. The biggest and most difficult thing was getting the pumps back in the rack...

It had a fairly stuck plunger on the #2. Cleaning and polishing the plungers and bores freed up the sticky parts. I used some fine metal polish and paper so as not to scratch the surfaces or be too aggressive. Pulling the pumps both out was an oopsy, but getting them back in...

Excellent! It runs at the correct temp. Fires up, quick puff of black smoke and then settles in on the rpm. Other than checking the vibration, it's ready for a new home!