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BTW, if anyone is thinking about doing contract work for that company, please PM me and ask me why I call them that. I have experience working for a multi-national company in the stores and as an independent contractor in a small market.
LOF? Lube, Oil and Filter?
I drive by two "Evil Empire Compounds" to go to this one.Small town. It's auto shop is manned by non-teenagers. This one in particular is run by a former indy shop owner in his late fifties needing to pay into Social Security.
Anyway, I trust but also watch.
I drive an old 7.3 Powerstroke and most oil change places want $110-120 for a Rotella oil change. I do the exact thing with it and from memory the oil change costs about $70. We might be in a little different situation here due to the various military testing companies located here.
I was...
I've not done this yet but Ive been told this will work.
Our local "Evil Empire" Walmart will do oil changes on a deuce.
You purchase the "Deluxe Oil Change" package. They do not stock the oil filters so carry your own. I'd probably recommend doing the cartridges yourself if they will let you...
Straight out of USAF Basic and into 463x0 tech school, we watched "Dr. Strangelove" in the first class. I think it was used as an "icebreaker" to loosen us up for our training.
There was a local airshow several years ago that was not heavily publicized going on. I really had no intentions of...
Wow, that was quick. Could you please specify a little?
Will it directly hook up to the military kitchen sections? If not, what is needed?
Will it hook up to standard 20ft storage containers? If not, what's needed?
Otherwise, it's truly scrap metal.
Will it safely transport an Arpa Model FFSS Mobile Kitchen section on the highway at convoy speeds?
Also, will it transport civvy generic 20ft storage containers?
@Another Ahab, the wheels in my head are turning. With these trailers selling basically at scrap prices, they have to be able to...
Try a welding supply place. Fine stranded very flexible welding/grounding cable usually cut by the foot. Get solder-on eyelets and a lb of resin core solder and make your own:)
Thanks for the direction guys. I'm afraid it's gonna be a little while before I'm under the truck again. I've been battling pneumonia (for the first time in my fifty years) and we here are having flooding like I haven't seen in over thirty-five years.
Thanks to Gimpyrobb's help, I have confirmed that I have the long air pack. I have read in various threads to pull the small plug from the diaphragm end and see whats in there. If its full of brake fluid, rebuild needed. If its dry, squirt some compressor oil in it and see if it frees itself up?
Just for clarification, what's the length of the piston housing on the short vs long air pack? Ive seen long vs short pics but unless one has both on a bench, it's not a really good reference point IMO.
Whenever the brake is applied, good solid pedal about 1/3 from the top and the pedal returns as it should. Everything looks and feels right but there is no power brakes. Feels like I have an air pack problem.
Jeepsinker, I just did that and I do feel better. Did no change to the problem though.
I'm going back a while to try to create the whole picture.
When I recovered my non-running for 6yrs deuce last year, the MC was full and the pedal would go to the floor, reservoir was full and the air-pack would hiss when the pedal was released. I had proper air pressure built up due to...
Reading up on the clutch/rear main job staring me in the face. On post #6, It's suggested making two studs 8" long the same diameter and thread as the flywheel/crank bolts. Could someone tell me what the diameter and thread pitch is so I can fabricate these before starting this task?
Thanks...
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