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I think your looking for #11 P/N 6015457 Runs from the seal plate for the front evap to the rear center mount evap. Edit: Kascar real 4wd has it for $76.44 and a picture of it on their site.

this was pretty strait forward, could not use my original fan and you will have to cut down the replacement fan. Use a Hayden Fan Clutch P/N 2839 or USMW fan clutch P/N 22613 (Cheaper option) For the Fan AC Delco P/N 15010202 or Dorman P/N 621-514 (cheaper option) same fan. I did trim leading...

Those numbers look like it is now over charged to me, on an 80 deg day I would expect to see maybe 20 over 180. From your description above, if it were your AC I would have expected the system to be empty from a blown hose or o ring. You may want to look over your cooling system if the coolant...

I took off a perfectly functioning hydraulic fan clutch and installed a viscus clutch some time ago, Why? although it is true that the hyd system locks up 100 % and the viscus system only 80% the viscus system unlocks to 20% instead of 0% so there is always air flowing. It gets hot here not...

https://genuinehumveeparts.com/product/5929744yoke-adjustment-kit also found it at AM General Site

Its been a long time since I had the 90 deg adapter apart, But I seem to remember that you can put it together in a way that reverses the rotation. Your cable may be long enough to hook directly to the TC just to make sure that corrects the problem. Edit: I think you can remove the output...

I don't see how you could get to the other side of the tail shaft with that gear to make it spin backwards. check your 90 deg adapter.

You can also just unsnap the coil from the holder push it forward to close the valve and snap it back down to hold it closed.

This is what I have on testing of the 6.2 Cheers

The only thing I can think of that would blow the guts out of your glow plug is fuel detonating early in the cylinder, picture the fuel igniting way before TDC and the other 7 cylinders forcing that one cylinder on up over center with the injector adding more fuel when it should to make the PSI...

Well, If the piston collapsed and pinched the rings ( from getting hot or either used to start it) you should see a fair amount of blow by. I would not think head gasket because if it blew out you would hear it and if it blew between cylinders you would find low comp in both. Burnt, bent, stuck...

I went out to start my rig one day, turned the switch to run and in a couple of seconds heard a bang (sounded like a 22 going off) started looking and testing since I didn't even crank the engine. I focused on the glow plugs sure enough the plug in #2 cyl was bad so I pulled it and found the tip...

If the injector is known to be good but looks wet when you pull it out you may want to check compression on that hole.

There are 2 threaded holes on the back of the light with a flat bar between them and the ground wire under one of the bolts. If I remember correctly the mounting bar (as its called in he manual ) is what supplies ground to both bolts. do you have the mounting bar in place?

if the trans light comes on with the start switch and stays on with the engine running, you probably don't have an RPM signal from your engine. The N/A engine had a sender where the turbo now sits, The turbo engine has the sender in the left lower side of the timing cover. you will need to...

Ran across this some time back, May be of help.

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CAUTION • Vehicle must be stopped, engine off, and transmission shift lever placed in “N” (Neutral), before transfer case can be shifted. Failure to do this will result in damage to drivetrain. • Do not place transfer case shift lever in “H/L” (high lock range) or “L” (low range) on high...

I had a problem with my RPM sensor, My trans light came on when key was on, and stayed on with the engine running. Fixed the RPM sensor wiring and the trans light went off when the engine started. When working correctley the trans light should come on with the ignition and go out when the engine...

sorry I missed it but just replied to your PM.