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Almost finished with the paint:

Personal preference really. I like both. If you go the hard top route, find a local sheet metal / fab shop and have them make you one. It will be cheaper and will be exactly how you want it.

Turned up the fuel (1/4 turn) and put in a less restrictive air filter. The person who invented the 15mm fuel pump wrench needs an award. The person who designed the throttle cable bracket mounting for this engine (6.2) needs to be dropped from an airplane though. On the "this job might suck...

Blue hummer has a really good upgrade for the spindle lock nut if your interested. http://www.bluehummer.com/lospnutkit.html i have no affiliation with the company.

Not sure but maybe they weren't selling many and need to unload some inventory. Doesn't look like much hardware is needed to install it but I doubt it comes assembled...

Quick google search and this came up...it is a sweet looking soft-slant-back but the "normal" version still has it beat IMO.

14ga steel. Weighs too much...didn't even think to do it out of aluminum! Next time...6061, great idea.

EGT and Tach install. Had my local fab shop cook me up a box. pulled power for the tach from fuel gauge and the gauge lights are pulled from gauge cluster light with a 24v to 12v converter to light the EGT. Haven't hopped up the injection pump yet but took it out for a spin and cruising at...

Did you do any other mods (exhaust or air filter) and do you have much black smoke?

Subscribing to follow this thread.

Very interested in your findings. I have an EGT gauge to install with the same purpose...bump the FI up and get some more gitty-up but was concerned about damaging engine components. Following your post!

Figure 235 of TM 9-2320-280-24P for the seats and figure 321 for the associated bows, C pillar, handrails and hardware.

I had my local NAPA order it in for me. The pic shows which one I used.

I used the stripper made for fiberglass and had no problems with it. The regular aircraft stripper will likely damage the substrate.

You don't need to remove the cover to change the oil. Drain plug is underneath and fill plug is on the side.

Xdoor refurbishment. Steps I used: power wash to remove grime and loose paint. Scraper to remove the big loose chunks not removed by power washing. Aircraft stripper, took a few coats of this. Sanding...lots of it. Resin to rebuild the X pattern and damaged Kevlar areas. Light body filler...

Pic attached.

gotta spend it to make it...if I had $10k in scratch doing nothing...and willing to sit on it for a few years, why not. I applaud the guy. Capitalism is a beautiful thing.

market value of about $65,000. Whoever bought that lot might feel pretty good about that purchase!

I would change the geared hub oil. Easy to change...drain plug and fill plug. When you drain it if it looks like chocolate milk you have a seal issue in that hub. Seals are not expensive...but definitely read the TM's and info here about what's involved. It's a critical component so I would...