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Glad you got out of that one without any injuries! Replacing all of the brake lines is something I'll get to very soon as age seems to do a number on hoses. I'm very concerned about the single circuit so new brake lines, replace any leaking wheel cylinders, check/rebuild air pack and master...

Thanks! I did inspect the races very very thoroughly. There isn't any scoring, scratching, or any roughness. They are as smooth as glass and no ridges or grooves. The bearings are/were riding right in the middle of the race with an equal amount of lip on either side.

If I'm posting too much in this thread, please let me know and instead I'll update existing posts but hoping someone might come behind me and discover the same issues and have an answer or two from the all-knowing members here. :) I finished the driver side completely and torqued everything...

Another update. I got a big arse 3/4 head torque wrench and torqued the inner axle nut to 150 while spinning to seat the bearings. I then backed off to zero. I then used the TM settings to torque it to 50lbs and then back 1/4 turn. That 1/4 turn back literally takes me to hand tight --...

I get that totally. My question is what does a complete failure of a wheel cylinder look like? I assume that the rubber seal would have to be torn or worn badly and then something would have to crack the cup as that outside diameter of the cup and the inside diameter of the cylinder is pretty...

My redneck engineering gave me what I need. I used a 1/2" black iron pipe and bought a black iron cap for it so I had a good surface to hammer. On the other end (business end) I threaded a heavy brass end cap on the pipe. I could feel it "give" as I pounded it around the perimeter until it...

Here's a question that is related to the wheel cylinders. I have at least two that are leaking on the driver intermediate and passenger rear. I fully understand how the brake cylinders work. Assuming a given truck has a remote reservoir and the brake fluid level can be seen and is not going...

I thought that might be the case in the center but looking at the picture in this thread of the RTV-set carrier, Mine is just about 1/16" below the knuckle surface below it. I thought it was bottomed because it kind of "clicked" into place once I got the opposite side level with the side that...

I'm going to head over to home depot in the morning and buy a 3/4 steel pipe and thread it on to a brass fitting and beat it with that. I've given up for tonight and will get after it again in the morning.

New update. I bought a pair of the billet axle seal/carrier assemblies from rockwell and they are a MUCH tighter fit. The original one can be put in and taken out easily though it has almost zero play so I suspect it would have been fine with some RTV but I'm in there and it's a money pit...

I have three sitting in a box on my bench. Maybe I should have gotten a full set.

Quick update. I stopped at the auto parts store and compared new bearings to my existing bearings. There was a little difference in that then new ones didn't have quite as much play and seemed to roll a bit smoother but not by much on either account. Since I have the whole thing apart I'm...

I went back and watched tactical repair's video and he just beats it to get those little pressed in cones so I did the same and eventually they worked loose. I have it all off now. I cleaned up both bearings and they seem fine. I'm going to go to Napa and compare mine to a new set and see how...

Thanks, Todd! I would think there would be excessive vibration -- there doesn't seem to be but it's hard to tell, lol, because the whole thing is a vibrating beast. I'll deal with this issue after I get the wheel issue solved. I may just remove the driveshaft completely for now, check the...

Ok, I'm stuck at the top king pin/arm. It seems fused to the knuckle. I put a 4x4 cedar block up against it and beat the hell out of it from below and it didn't even crack the bond between the two. I banged on the corner of it rather carefully with a rounded hammer so I wouldn't mar it up but...

Thanks for the data on the temp. I'll post good pictures of the mess around the boots tomorrow morning. I'm not sure if there's oil mixed in or not just yet. It is flung around the inside of the tire/wheel but could just be grease I suppose and no gear oil.

Not sure how to check the pinion bearings so I'll research that. Seems I'll have to remove the driveshaft to check for movement? I'm going to try to tear down all the way tomorrow morning and see what I find. I'll take a short video of the driveshaft rotating "out of center" or whatever it's...

Inside the hub. I didn't check brake clearance before pulling it. Doh! I'll put it back on and snug the outer bolt and check. Bearing doesn't look/feel damaged. Some of the yellow factory grease is still in between the rollers. It's missing there about 2 o'clock as I spun the bearing...

Side note - I assume the mild clacking when spinning the passenger wheel (hubs installed vs. not installed) is backlash. Removing the hubs ends that, of course, because the axle shafts aren't moving at that point. I fear this is going to be a money pit. The drive shaft is clearly bent and has...

I finally got some of my supplies in from various online vendors and decided to start tearing down my new to me M35A2. I tried to drive this home and about 400 miles in, the truck started oozing a LOT of grease from the boots. The driver hub was also getting hot very quickly. I started with...