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Kk. I’ll keep a wooden stake handy for when I com across them

Removed two batteries and now while the engine is run at idle and at 1500rpm (no tach just sounds like 1500 definitely less than 200) reading are 14.1v and 28.0v. Trying to find a way to get that extra .2v’s maybe that’s where the balancer comes in to play?

Thanks. It looks like a marine switch. Ah! Blue Sea. Makes sense. That’s where I‘be seen them, at West Marine Products

Kk so remove 1 front & back battery and add a “kill” switch (I’ve been looking at this one ) to the neg side. I believe the neg cable coming from the batteries goes to the charging port, towards the back, outside of the box. Would you recommend making the interrupt there, between the charging...

Super simple, no lie. I would like to install a master disconnect switch, though

Appreciate. Will look into reconfiguring the battery box. Would have saved $500 in batteries if I’d found you guys sooner. Thanks for all the tips and info

Will do!👍🏻 I saw the glad hand seal are looking a little rough. Definitely start by replacing those and climb around to look for leaks. Both cages are broken on the driver side. Had to tell the guys towing it back to my place to air up the tanks to release the parking brakes

I’ve noticed an air leak has developed in the air system av the the service tanks are empty in the morning when they were showed 120psi the night before

Thank you very much. I charge the batteries periodically. Run time is still limited because I’m waiting for the title. In the mean time I’m doing what maintenance I can do when it’s time to be inspected I won’t have any issues. I’ll remove 2 of the batteries and see if that helps with changing...

I disconnected the wires before testing. I’ve heard this is an effect of how they are wired when charging

👍🏻

Here are the current readings from all 4 batteries with the engine on and off

I’ll get those voltages in a min

To date since I installed the new batteries, I’ve had no issues aside from the one problem with the ctis

You would think they would have made them more robust

I haven’t put a meter on them since I installed 4 new batteries. At least one had a dead short. I figure this is why it wouldn’t jump start. One video I saw explained how the zig zag looming of the 12 v line is not optional for charging

It was jumped through the nato charging point the day it was released to me. But not since 4 new batteries all charged independently before installing them in the box. It worked….and now it doesn’t🤔🤪

Ya the guy fromDana walked me through trying to bypass the hwy button but, no joy. The controller is burnt. Time for a new one

I would be interested in seeing what can be done or a replacement part