Search results

I just sold a set of timkens, but i never looked to see what shafts they had.

If it's still there, the easiest way to identify which style front axle you've found is by the tag. If the tag says Timken, then it's an older undesirable model with either the Bendix- or Rezepa-type shaft. If the tag says Rockwell, then it's got Spicer-type shafts. This is according to jp...

yes replace it...waaaaay to much work there.

RE: sorry The rock crawler guys, have been running the 16.00r20 on the stock deuce combat wheels, with no complaints, Id like to know what you did to get a 88 chevy down to 3500lbs? If you are not on street you can run about any wheel you want. Just the wider the wheel the wider the footprint...

I can pickup gassers here in idaho for around 1000-1500.

Well, Ill see if anything turns up in the states, looks like shipping would be close to $100

Well by searching the photos, it appears I need the oil pickup tubes and mounting bracket from a LDS-465 TM 9-2815-210-34p Figure 20 (LDS diagram) Items 25, 56 and 57 Anyone have these laying around? I posted a classified as well. Thanks for all the help guys!!!

Im sorry, about the TM....I completely missed the "next page" button. Ill do some research on my own before i bug everyone some more.... lol guess im blind sometimes.

Ill check to see how much i lose, then that might be required. But if I expand the area notched for the front axle, and just cut off the lowmost portion of the small sump, I should be about the same as original.

I would move the shackle and spring hangers down. If you lower the front hanger 4" (gives 2" of lift) then lower the rear hanger 4" (2" more of lift) then flip the rear shackle (4" more of lift) You will get 8" of lift, no spring changes then you can remove those nasty perches. For more info...

I cant seem to find the engine manual, But I dont have any manuals for this beast yet...

Ive done some research on here and cant find too much. To do my 56 chevy cab/nose swap, I need to move the front axle about 10 inches forward, along with the steering etc... But my issue is oil pan clearance. What i am thinking is to flip the stock pan around. then modify the low portion...

Re: RE: Dump bed Well if ya vote for parts, lets see some cash... what parts ya want? lol :lol:

I agree, hideous, but it really is worse in person... I wanted 56 cab, drop the rear axle, pickup bed, bigger tires..... Wife says, 56 cab, custom flatbed, keep it a 6x6 Buddy suggested the 56 stepside bed, with really stretched fenders to give it that usa6x6 bed type of look.

yes the big tank really is gone in favor of the behind the seat. There is no body electrical system, that works anyway, no lights etc.. core support is damaged making drivers side headlight point at the sky. Frame is the worst though. sad thing is the guy bought it as a complete M35A2 about...

the bed is 8' wide and 9' long

I can walk out and get any measurement needed off this bed. Thats just what i was told.

Heres one thing i was thinking, since im not much of a ford guy... Do the cab swap, then bob, and run a long bed, step side (era correct and widened, to match the width of duals)

Well here it is: 1966 Kaiser M35A2 Frame No: 0125-23xxx LDT-465-1C Recent surplus engine swap (less than 500 miles) Frame was hacked and shortened 1976 ford cab and nose (lengthened 6") was added for idaho winters Dump bed was put on, owner said a 50's GMC dump bed It is a very well used...

Heres pic of my recently acquired 66 M35A2, or whats left of it. Its a 76 ford cab, fenders and hood stretched 6" with a 50's gmc dump bed (so i was told)