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Hey Jason,
Welcome aboard, we all lurked for a while (except for the founding fathers). Learned a lot before joining. Then after joining, learned there are a lot of good folks out there with a lot of experience.
We will need pictures when available.
JC
Get a good shop vac and attach a long wand or hose to it and start snaking it around to capture all the debris. Then blow it out with compressed air and repeat.
Congats on your new truck. My '72 looks identical except it has a hardtop, and cab heat. Drain the transfer case and fill with diesel fuel, run it lightly, drain it and fill with gear oil. That will help free up the sprag. Also the rubber airline that connects the compressor to the rigid...
Well fellas, the OP asked and as always, the SS members offered up some good info and trouble shooting. Its is his court
now. Maybe he buys it, then we can assist him with the fix. Then again, maybe referencing the appropriate tech manuals
will ensure the vehicle is operated and/or repaired in...
Take note, the front winch pto and the crane pto are separate controls. The crane pto lever is on the floor, left side of the drivers seat. Sounds like the crane pto is engaged. Reference the operators hand book (-10).
It is a tricky sequence of control manipulation.
Thanks for the info. Already pulled ALL the fuses so they are not installed at this time. I do have an amp meter for 10amps or less. I do have more than 10 amps going through the last battery wire I connect. I haven't tried the ignition switch yet.
Oh yeah, 10 amps will make a big spark...
Battery looks to be wired in series, which is correct. (if your blue post it notes are correct). Disconnect the true negative lead, connect the positive leads and make the negative lead the last connection, this should minimize the sparking. A large spark normally means the system has a...
-especially in the snow on the Eastern Front of Indiana. Dave, you need to have an open day for inspection. So us close by can come up and kick the treads. Very cool, congratulations.
JC