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Yes and yes...its for the removable hard top and we have deer leases to hunting on. Its not like it use to be when you could just walk up to a land owner and ask to hunt (huge market in these parts).

My CUCV is at my deer lease now and can not measure the rear top bolt size. I would like to replace these with wing nut bolts for easy removal. Can anyone help me out please? Thanks, Casey

Meaning that it was possibly lifted....

It is the same color as what was in there...its just a little off though. It has 41 teeth and is yellow if that helps. The only reason why I think its different is that the steering wheel is not straight so maybe someone put a different gear to have the correct speed?

Do you have the part number for the hitch? Did it bolt right up? Thanks, Casey

It was not the cable itself...it was the gear. It was stripped out in the tube and the new gear did the trick. What number of teeth for the plastic speedo gear? It seems to be a little high on readings.

I dont believe I have to pull the transfer case, its only the plastic gear that is stripped out and its not the teeth but the inside of the tube where the speedo cable attaches.

I forgot: Thanks for all the help guys!

Well, when the cable spins the speedo is working. So I am assuming the speedo is not the problem...so I pulled the plastic gear from the transfer case and attached it see if it worked with that and it did not. Does the plastic gear in the transfer case come out of the hosing or is it attached...

Fellas, I have figured out my problem! After buying a new modulator, regulator, vac lines...there was a leak in the metal vac line runing to the trans!! I ran a hose from the old regulator with a hose to the modulator and it worked perfect. I am really thinking about doing a right up for...

The TPS, is that the single screw on the right handle side of the IP (behind the green wire in the picture)? Thanks for all the help guys

Ok, had some time to snap a photo...where do I need to adjust. The modulator and regulator is adjusted for the softest shifts possible. I am not sure I even put the regulator on right? Like I said before, it shifted very soft when it was directly connected to the pump. Where do I go from here?

I took the old cable out and oiled it up...it was in decent shape other than what looked to be a burn mark. It now spins freely but speedo still does not work!

I am sorry, what is TPS? I know to adjust the regulator back and forth...this is frustrating!

Ok, here is the update. Installed an adjustable modulator and nothing...so I then hard wired the vac line from the pump to the modulator. It shifted very very soon so I troubled shot it to the regulator. Well, I replaced the regulator on the IP and I can not seem to get it to work?? Is there...

Is there a write up on replacing the cable on this site? I am guessing I will having to take the dash apart to get to the back of the speedo itself?

Replaced the modulator on the trans and it did nothing (adjustable). I turned the screw out as well and it made no difference. I have suction from the regulator and vac lines have been replaced. What else is there??? Kickdown switch? My speedo does not currently work, but it seems to shift...

Where can I get a new one from and is there any directions for replacing the cable for the speedo?

Also, how do I check if the kickdown switch is bad. If I go from D to 2nd and back to D it seems to hold gear fine? Thanks for all the help guys!

With the speedo, the cable runs all the way to the transfer case and not cut. I am having a hard time unbolting the assemble on the transfer case to check for teeth but can unscrew the garmet before it. The cable does not spin at all by hand for that point, I am guessing that is not good.