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Thanks, Its really giving me some great troubleshooting lessons and skills that I can use in the future as I work on my own 9, I just wish I would have gotten it a month sooner as we are beginning to get weather here and it won't be long before the snow is flying. What sucks is he was going to...

Drove it to work today...noise in the flywheel area trying to start and prgressively getting worse. Stopped after work to get a quick hair cut (Drill this weekend) and it would not start. Turned over a little then a spinning bendix sound so either the starter is not shimmed right or not...

Got the dash back together and did another little custom touch... While I had the cluster out and was testing the different bulb circuits, I took the Seat Belt/Brake Warning window out and lightly scaped the seat belt lettering off the plastic lense. I then printed a new label on clear tape on...

Could not have done it without your patience and consistance with coming back to the thread each day, as well as the others too who helped. I will say I learned a lot during the troubleshooting on this CUCV that I did not know or have problems with on my own when I swapped a Civy 6.2 in from a...

HOUSTON WE HAVE IGNITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I put the pink and green wires back on the IP and did a half dozon cycles of cranking and finally began to get a little fuel out the #1 and #2 injector lines so I put them back on. Another half dozen cycles and the batteries were slowing down so put it...

Well the fuel heater is leaking for sure, as was the pressure switch, and the lower bleed screw was missing so fuel filter as it hangs is toast as is. I don't have a spare, so filter swap is needed for sure whether stock (which is notorious for leaking) after market spin on, or inline it came to...

Ended up taking the filter assembly off and and putting 10 psi of pressure between the the supply and return ports. Leaking at the heater at the top for sure. Put the cheap inline filter from the repair shop back on and applied 10 psi to the return line to pressurize the system but getting...

Yes still using the original base, I pulled the filter off to check the pressure switch area and it did look pretty wet so I removed it, tapped and inserted a stainless screw with Teflon tape in the hole. I need a second hand to prime now and that is what brought me to the whole priming ideas...

I was reading over on Diesel Place and a guy suggests appying a 4 psi pressure on the return line hose to pressurize the entire fuel system and then you can also search for leaks of air or fuel. My problem is getting my compressor regulated that low. Checking HF for cheap regulators in the...

I reconnected the battery terminals and I moved the disconnect from the front battery negative to the center battery negative. I no longer have the 12v on the orange GP terminals of the GP Relay with the disconnect in the open position. I tested the Push Button GP Relay Button and get the 12v...

Post #25 - They were all 2.8ohms during the #19 troubleshooting steps. Post #45 - Glow Plugs all test nice and bright with the test light ground on the the GP terminal and the touching battery + with the probe. Is there any other tests to confirm good or fried?

Still pretty cold today, so only got the GP push button wires ran and terminated on the GP Solenoid. Dropped the starter relay bracket, mounted the new Doghead Relay and put it back together. I'm hoping to bleed the fuel again early this week as its suppose to warm up to the mid 40s and...

Winter storm running through here since Midnight last night. Looks like we probably got 4-6" of the first snow this season for Central Illinois, so its putting a huge damper on my troubleshooting today. Its also about 31 degrees and it was like 70 last weekend... Since I want to at least get...

As I stated this morning in post #43 above - Last night I was double checking fuses and found some taps in the fuse block with one going into circuit 12 - the 24V/mtr tap. I pulled it last night. There is also a switch next to the 24v meter and a dash stereo so its probably one too. I double...

Yes, still 24v starter which he just replaced again recently because the first was replaced for some reason and the shop installed a 12v starter then smoked it. I just eliminated the resistor so now the 12v on the GP solenoid is hot all the time from the firewall terminal. His idea behind the...

Update tonight before seeing your last post above. Glow Plugs all test nice and bright with the test light ground on the the GP terminal and the touching battery + with the probe. I hooked up my meter to the GP output orange terminal on the solenoid and grd...I also put my Sun Starter switch...

I did reinstall the card but did not check for voltage yet. I double checked the fuses again and even ohm checked them to be sure. I did notice some wire taps in the fuse block and after yesterday's review of Warthogs fuse box information that I created a downloadable pdf, I need to see where...

Terminals removed and insulated and GP Card removed: Key off - LtBlue card terminal contact: 0v Key off - LtBlue card terminal contact: open circuit Key on - LtBlue card terminal contact: 0v Key off - Red control terminal: 0v Key on - Red control terminal: 12v Installed the new S-603 Solenoid...

Update: Bench tested the GPR7 with the battery...pwr leads on the "S" and "I" terminals immediate clunk. Continuity between the load and GP terminals. Reinstalled the GPR7 mounted on the piece of peg board, isolating the mount from the truck chassis. Key on...no GPR clunk. Grd to the LtBlue...

Even though I'm showing 12v on the Ltblue and its showing continuity with the other red terminal is it safe to ground that terminal for testing?