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Checked the turning torque again this afternoon (3rd day). No change on either side, same as yesterday. EDIT (Dec 5, 06): 4th day: No change..... EDIT (Dec 6, 06): 5th day: No change.... EDIT (Dec 9, 06): 8th day: No change....

Good point, I'm currently looking for an NOS tierod end made for this truck. I still think that using a "standard" ball joint for comparison would be like the proverbial apples and oranges thing. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm thinking that the "sealed for life" design may have offered an improvement...

Will, as you know the purpose of the linkage is to transfer a motion, not to introduce resistance. Like a gear train/transmission, you'd want minimum resistance. These ball joints were made with a hard plastic, Delrin to be able to keep very tight tolerances. No lube space required, normally...

After 48 hours: CLP soak: required turning torque has dropped to 50 ft-lb Heat Valve Lube soak: No change, still 70 ft-lb

Thanks David, sent you an email. Checked ball joints this morning. No change from yesterday. Added more penetrant. This may take days.... Edit: After 24 hours, no change, added more penetrant.

I'm going to let the penetrants work on their own. I will report back tomorrow. The torque required to continue turning was insignificantly less (?), perhaps 5 ft-lb or so.

Got a can of "Heat Valve Lube" from a GM dealer in Mt Airy, NC, today. The front tie rod is on a bench indoors at this time, an 1/8" hole in each ball joint cap. CLP squirted into one and Heat Valve Lube into the other. The torque required to turn the CLP ball was 60 ft-lb and the Heat Valve...

Tie rod end FSN 2530-045-1949. Okay David I'm considering finding an NOS one. Not a normally stocked item by most dealers, though. EDIT: Since my manual is dated June 1969, the NSN for the tie rod end becomes NSN 2530-00-045-1949.

On the other hand, the acid approach may be a way to open the space between the ball and dry lube packing some....worth looking into, "the spray from God" huh.

I like the microscopic teflon dust in the CLP, it provides lubrication compatible with the Delrin. If the "Heat Valve Lube" contains an acid, how is it neutralized in time? Wouldn't want it eating away at the ball once the rust is gone. Vinegar is a good rust remover because it's a mild acid...

A lot of (most?) modern designs are compromises, I think that a lot of 60's designs still are state of the art. Much was designed and built with money as no object. I appreciate your feedback guys, that's how these problems are solved.

I have my doubts about grease doing anything at all. Look at the images below, the part of the ball becoming exposed when it's exercised is free of rust. That's how good the seal is along the lower edge (top edge in that image). Rust above, no rust below after 37 years. A hermetic seal couldn't...

Using my trusty torque wrench on the ball/stud shows that it takes about 70 ft-lb to start it turning in its socket. There are 11 "sealed for life" ball/stud joints in the steering linkages. They are now swimming in CLP Break Free. Ideally, the ball should move without friction and be tight.

This is how I work the ball joints. They only loosen up so much and then that's it, still pretty firm, but maybe that's the way it's designed to be. Spec on how many ft-lb of torque should be required to turn the balls in their sockets would be nice....

Removed the forward drag link today. The ball joints of it and the rear tie rod are now soaking in CLP "Break Free". The jam-nut-impact-wrench idea didn't work very well, couldn't get the nuts tight enough and the turning action of the impact wasn't right for this.

Boots? Yes, about the same size, perhaps a bit smaller and four of them, I know the deuce is only ten feet away, but I haven't measured them. They are all punctured and need to be replaced. The power steering pump is gear driven in front of the IP. Need to get smaller profile nuts for the...

Removed the second axle tie rod a little while ago. Will put a couple of jam nuts on the studs for turning with impact if nothing else works, but they will get exercised. With plastic and fiber inside, heating is out. The hub turns with finger pressure, which is nice.

Not making a heck of a lot of progress here, the tie rod ends have been soaking off and on for a week almost. They have the stud up and the ball cavity down for supposedly easy soaking, but PB blaster hasn't done much at all. Takes about 150 ft-lb of torque to turn the tie rods using a pipe...

Eggsactly, you got it, but I have to watch my back, dont want it to go out (again), it's like pushing a shock absorber in and out, a constant resistance. I also don't know how loose these joints should be by design. A four-wheel front end alignment is next. The right front tire is worn pretty...

According to the SAE paper, the purpose of the seals was to keep dirt away from the rod ends. They probably, like Jon suggests above, did more harm than good by trapping moisture. I'll be leaving them out.