Search results for query: clutch

...pipe as the oil from the reduction unit is not enough to keep the pump operating correctly. Most people do not realize the main cause of clutch failure is lack of oil pressure. Either from leaking or torn oil seals or sealing rings. Yes shift timing is also important as is how much pressure...

...damage). Actually, it was originally a 302M but it was converted in 1964 with the "A" and "B" modifications. Basically, they added two more clutch plates in the front drum assembly. That is all the difference between a 302M and 303M transmission. Why on earth they thought they could get by...

...Planet carrier butts up against the snap ring you just installed. Here I'm installing the "Reverse Internal Gear Assembly" and the "Reverse Clutch Cone" . Now it's time to install the snap ring on the Input shaft. You must install the "Rear Oil Pump" before installing the "Output Shaft...

...Seems the last owner took his M135 for a swim. There was extensive damage to many different parts of the transmission. The reduction units clutches where severely worn. The front and rear clutch packs were destroyed. Literally ! The front pumps vanes were totally worn out. The rear pump had...

.... Once the assembly is in place and the main support is bolted down, you can pressure test the whole assembly. This hole applies the front clutch. This hole applies the rear clutch. After tearing down everything due to the high leakage, I checked the iron seals for clearance. Since I only...

...Here are the pictures of my efforts today. Installing the inner seal (rubber) and the iron outer seal. I forgot to show installing the clutch plates. When I go back together nect time I'll show it. Here you need to install the small bronze thrustwasher than the steel washer which has a...

...with five 303M HydraMatics and quite a few good parts. So now I'm ready to get back on the rebuild project. The first thing is rebuilding the clutch drums. I had to replace some bushings in the rear drum. The front drum was fine. This chisel is called a "bushing cutter" . You can see the...

The machine shop finally finished all the work I had him do. I had 10 clutch drums and piston housings modified to "six" drive rods instead of three, and a bunch of pistons modified with the quicker apply, and other odds and ends. To save a little bit of money I installed the drive rods myself...

...should take a few days. So, this week and a bit of the next week I won't get into the shop much. I cannot start the reassembly anyway as I'm waiting on the machine shop to finish my clutch drums and pistons. They were pretty slammed with work. So don't be alarmed if I don't post for a few days.

Sorry, no new pictures or build information today. The machinist has my pistons and soon will have my clutch housings to modify. I'm turning all my 3 rod housings into 6 rod units. I mean if you're going to rebuild it, you should rebuild it right from the start.

Thanks Toby. Too bad about your Allison 1545 though. They're a good transmission in the right application, and that would be in a smaller truck. Have you thought about using an Allison 1000/2000 series transmission ? With that nice overdrive they have you should be able to fly down the road. My...

I tore down a mid fifties HydraMatic that someone had installed "bronze friction" clutches in the front drum assembly. Sadly they messed it up so bad it killed the transmission ! Sometimes the "bronze" frictions do not fit the hub as well as they should, and they need a little file work. This...

Spent the day cleaning parts. Thought this would be a good time to show another "trick" in rebuilding a HydraMatic. The clutch pistons in the two main housings were made of cast iron until 1950 (give or take a year) . After that they were made out of "aluminum" . The only reason I can see is...

...be broke on. During that time you also need to change out the fluid. You don't want all that band material floating around in there. The fiber clutches also need to get broke in, so you end up with a lot of fiber material from them also. After about 10,000 miles or so you will have a good...

Now is as good a time as any to share a little secret to help beef-up this transmission. The two main drums, the front clutch drum and rear clutch drum are not as strong as they could be. In later HydraMatics they fixed this issue. So what am I talking about. Here's a picture of the standard...

...numbers for the 3 roller bearings and they recently came in the mail. So bushings can be made in a machine shop, as can thrustwashers. The clutch plates are sold by Fatsco, except for the ones in the reduction unit. Thankfully those are "Bronze" and usually are in good shape. So the only...

OK here's a little "trick" to help with the apply of the front and rear clutch packs. You have a lathe cut a 1/16" deep ridge on the bottom of the apply piston. Extend it 1/2" outward from the center of the piston. See picture. This allows a faster apply of the clutches since there is already a...

...and the "reduction unit" output shaft. Now back to the piston and the driven cone.) This "driven cone" then slides up on the "reduction unit clutch housing" seen here, and contacts the "stationary cone" which is pressed into the reduction units housing. You can see the friction material in...

...is very different as you can see here. The left housing is a Pontiac and the right is the 303M housing. A major difference is in the 2 main clutches. The pistons use a solid seal ring instead of a rubber "lip seal". I can only guess the military wanted no possibility of clutch failure due to...

...material is coming off the plate too. Anytime friction plates are losing material like this their bad. Also any steels that came out of this clutch pack would be thrown out. I see now I forgot to show you the steels. Well that will be for tomorrow then. Heres some close-up pictures of the...