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My guess is brass, like most older radiators.

I doubt that they are, but I can go scrape some paint off of one tomorrow and find out.

Solder up the hole and hope there won't be too many other leaks?

Bring one each of the old ones to NAPA?

The normal recommended 50/50 mix works great. Just don't put it in a handy old style oil can like I did. It has a crimp on the bottom, which works well with the regular oil it was intended for, but the acetone/ATF mix crept through that crimp. Yes, it's that good of a penetrant.

I would avoid heating anything and instead put a few drops of acetone/ATF on the threads and let it work - over a few days. My 1-inch hydraulic hydraulic impact , good for about 2,500 ft .-lbs., would likely remove the nuts, but together with the studs. And overall I've had much better...

I would think so. Have had vehicles that only revved to under 5,000 and the only filtration they had was a centrifugal filter. In those it was built into the crankshaft pulley.

Don't overlook that both batteries should ideally have come off the production line one after the other. In other words, never replace just one in a dual (or more) battery application.

Ideally you should charge with only a few amps for a couple of days, then up the amperage. Of course, most smart chargers/maintainers won't activate when the voltage is too low, but can be tricked into charging by hooking up a good battery in parallel for 15-20 minutes.

Hmm. The compressor is direct driven and always runs when the engine is. Or should. Either way, nothing you did with the wiring could impact the function of the compressor. I'd guess that the compressor does pump air, but it doesn't get to the tanks anymore. Is the regulator flowing air?

Speaking of LEDs. In the past couple of days I've been working on getting the lighting functional on the FLUs. One had a dim work light, turned out to be resistance in the head/work light switch. But the first one I bought had nothing...other than power to the work lights. Disgusting, really...

Well, apparently there is. Even Amazon has them, $8.69 for a 10-pack.

If memory serves me, that bulb was used in typical aftermarket VDO gauges.

I wouldn't be surprised if you could buy them on Amazon. And speaking of surprised. Today I took another stab at figuring out why the Winter SEE hasn't started for well over a year...as in won't even make a click when hitting the starter button. Had already verified that it most likely was an...

Haven't used a FLU for real work for a while, which is why I've been quiet. Anyway, those rippers are great, I think. In my case it's when digging horse graves and getting into the river rock. Without, the bucket teeth would just slide off the larger rocks and making me think I'd be better off...

Been meaning to find out where/why the pump on the M1008 is leaking (other than because the vent line is plugged) for years. How close to done am I? After all, they say that the first step is to admit that you have a problem. No idea who said that.

When first getting the FLU HME it was smoking badly. Did a fair amount of research and settled on Liqui Moly . Not that I can say what actually fixed the problem, but it went away.

Retard it a bit?

Good point. I couldn't resist buying it once I found out about them, basically to complete the collection. There might be another one in Kansas or Missouri, but I haven't been able to verify that. The hydrostatic drive intrigues me and I wish I could hang on to the dozer blade. Used that on a...

I have considered listing the HME there, if for no other reason because some of the Burning Man crowd might see it. After all, it's one of the few stock vehicles that would look right in place there.