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Your issue sounds a bit different than mine. For one, I haven't seen any sign of corrosion yet. Well, I can only see so much of the spool with the linkage still attached. Can't remember how far I pulled it out when the linkage was disconnected. Also, in my case the lever moves freely until...

I need to dig into the valve for the left outrigger, again. Once the fluid is warm that one will go down, but not back up again until everything has cooled off. The first time I found some debris in the bottom "cup" and thought that was the problem. Last time things looked clean, and I suspect...

I'm impressed that mine (all four FLUs) generally fire right up, even after sitting for six months or so. But before fixing the fuel line leaks on the one with bacteria and other issues, I did have to use the pump on that one, more than once.

It's an OM352. Should be lots of photos on the interwebs.

I would either put a lock on that lever, or remove it altogether. People aren't as satisfied with just looking at things like they used to be.

Generally, the stuff you really need or want shows up much later than the unimportant stuff. I'm just surprised that you seem to value a watch over a FLU. Especially on this site you may want to watch posting comments like that.

There will be some oil in the air, coming from the compressor.

You're braver than I am. A friend has tried letting movie people use his vehicles, and it did not end well. I keep getting requests for using some of my cars in films, but decline...even if I'm the only one allowed to drive them. Sure hope it works out for you.

I bought those brackets, too, and they have worked exactly as I hoped - by having them I haven't needed them. Yet anyway. And welcome to the Covid club. Had it for the third time about five months ago, and this time it decided to kick my butt, hard. Oh well, life goes on, thankfully, and when...

Wish you were closer. I went to Paris, TX, earlier this month to pick up a railer, and may end up going there again, but... It took me over 24 hours to make the 1,600-mile trip as it was. If also going a bit off course and adding a few hundred miles, I wouldn't be in shape to be much help. And...

Well, for a SEE you don't really need a jack.

Lucked out with the first one I bought. It came with everything, including the jack. Maybe because it was in Washington, not Texas? After that, the only thing one of them came with was the ripper. Bought a new 3/4-inch impact for the HMMH for about $300, then paid a bit more for a used 1-inch...

You'll love the impacts. Especially the 1" when removing the loader (but I would still start soaking the threads with acetone and ATF a couple of days ahead of time). You might find both new and used tools on eBay. I did.

No need to cut the fenders. Even thin tire chains will create the necessary clearance withing a day or two.

Not to be mean, but are those before or after pictures? (Sorry, couldn't resist)

I do have to give those Toyo M55s some extra credit. They've been on there for about 20 years and still look like they could be a year old, despite our brutal UV. And the thread is in great shape, except for where the tire chains have left some marks. Needless to say, it doesn't get driven on...

Not quite. They're 255/85R16 M55s.

It does indeed affect the suspension on my Ram 3500 DRW quite a bit. But it's not so much that the trailer is heavy (just over 10,000 lbs. as I recall) as that the rear 20 feet are empty space. Most of the weight is in the living quarters up front. With the axles centered under the garage...

It's a toy hauler. There's a 20-foot garage in the back. Over 4K weight on the coupler (by how much I don't know), so the M1008 goes down to about two inches from the bump stops.

I don't drive it on the roads much. It's primarily used as a tug.