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The CTIS can be set to 81 psi by switching the 1911 wire to the controller from power to open (cut the wire or install a switch). Here's my thread on how to change the CTIS settings without programming. You can do even more with the Dana software and an RP1210 adapter/laptop...

The factory Dana controller IS water proof. And also programmable. It also seems to a little more tolerant of wiring harness short circuits. Buddy of mine bricked his Arduino due to his truck developing a wiring harness fault. Dana controller survived and was able to diagnose and report a fault...

They are a known failure point so I would replace both. The new ones don't stack I don't think. The MTV power divider is only used when you select MODE on the Allison control panel.

I will add that being an FD truck - the newer style cartridge dryer is more likely to actually BE serviced since it only takes 5 minutes and a new cartridge vs the old style that you have to essentially remove from the truck and spend at least an hour servicing assuming you have a new bag of...

Curious as to why you haven't considered a 24v quad-mount (pad mount) alternator like @MatthewWBailey used on his build? Reportedly a toddler could bolt it up. No modifications required...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/276496175581 His post...

First of all - upgrade your air dryers to the newer style Haldex PURest dryer and service them every 6 months or you will be buying new air compressors like they are going out of style. Second - you don't service those valves you just replace them. They are inexpensive Haldex parts. There are...

How does it ride though? I was concerned after looking into weights and valving that nothing seems to be even close to what these trucks require. What I noticed with the stock FMTV shocks I've played with was that they don't rebound on their own and can be moved relatively easily if you move...

They shouldn't open with a regulated supply at 55 psi going into their control line and if they are venting they would be venting *tire* air not air from your compressor. That should inflate the tires (if they are low) to that pressure and stop - if they are higher than 55 the air from all the...

Did you inspect the main cab ground behind the grill yet? There's really no point in troubleshooting weird behavior till you clean and inspect every connection. Then if you still have problems start doing voltage drop tests. These trucks were built with REALLY SHITTY ground and power connection...

Military pays $235 and some change as of Jan '24 for that part. 🤷‍♂️

I'm working on refurbishing these ECM's. I've got one on the bench right now that has a power supply issue. Not ready to start accepting them for repair just yet. Soon perhaps though. But it's easy to just grab a working one for $500 to $1000 off eBay and program it. Just need engine serial...

The software is no problem. Send me a thumb drive.

That would be quite the find. And quite the career ending field loss for the individuals responsible for that weapon. You should see the absolute shit storm of paperwork and irate officers if someone loses track of a set of NVG's.... I have never seen a weapon go missing although if it happened...

Ok. Step one - hold onto that LED test light so you can shove it up the Snap On guy's backside where it belongs. Those are USELESS in my honest personal opinion. They are toys at best but are actually going to misdirect your diagnostic process by telling you that you have voltage but without any...

Almost surely apocryphal but likely has some kind of kernel of truth. The version I heard was the coke bottle was in an (A, B, C) pillar and was hung by a coat hanger or piece of MIG wire so it could swing and knock like a wind chime. The famous news report of the Chrysler factory workers...

The jokers at S&S (BAE) left a pneumatic riv-nut gun (10x32 of course) inside the cab wall behind the driver's side seatbelt retractor on my 2008. Would rock side to side and clunk against the inside and outside sheet metal of the cab. Took many, many months to uncover that one. Had to be there...

How/what instrument did you use to test for power and ground? If your answer is a DVOM, the go back and test the power and ground circuits properly with them loaded. Use at least a 2 amp test light and check for voltage drop. DMM/DVOM is a waste of time for testing. Won't tell you shit. I say...

Looks like they are both collapsed to me. You can see where the metal is being rolled off the bracket in both pics I think (hard to see on the passenger one - need a close up with more light). Not as badly as mine but have put miles on mine in the 3 years I've owned it (7k a year) and it served...

They are out there. Be aware of manufacture dates as they are rubber - don't buy anything older than ~5 years if you can help it. There is a fellow on ebay that has sold them for $50 each a couple times now but he only lists two at a time - I'm assuming to promote the assumption of scarcity...

My engine mounts were shot. And every other truck I've looked at was in similar condition. Speaking with someone in the know - apparently even Acela doesn't change these. 2008 M1079 w/25,000 miles. Before. You can see the "fretting" from vibrations that is causing that characteristic red...